Catastrophic engine failure on a TD5

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Originally Posted by Taz

I think your right Bee utey,
After some reading it does seem like a common problem, there was even a recall for D2 on rubbing fuel lines. That, plus the misty nature of the leak, would suggest it's the HP line, not the LP return line, so most likely just coincidence.

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It is most likely the green banded line. Do a search on this forum for "stuck in the snowys" and read about what happened to me.
Regards Robbo.
PS. I'm s**t scared about this running on/diesel in oil thing.........

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Originally Posted by woko

When the repairs done you should do this Mod. This come from LR Tech support after I had a 03 disco doing the same thing but without the total engine failure but took LR tech some time to come to this. They wanted injectors changed, no change. New head with another set of injectors, No change. Long motor with another set of injectors, No change. Then they wanted this mod done, it still leaked from the plungers of the injectors but had dramatically reduced, Had fuel pump running for 12hrs and the injector tops were damp. before the head was full of fuel. So I highly recommend it.

On the fuel filter housing, the front pipe closest to chassis, remove the fitting from housing.
On the end of the fitting there is a rubber check valve. remove the check valve from fitting and then separate rubber tip from plastic end.
You will notice the hole through the plastic reduces drill this out to the same size. I think from memory it is a 1/8 but check.
Reassemble Job done
This is the return line from the engine and reduces the return line pressure. It slows the diesel ingress into engine.
I check oil level on TD5's before servicing and it is surprising how many fill the sump. Its more common on the later Td5's with green injectors.

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I had a look at this on the weekend when changing the fuel filter, but wasnt confident enough to know exactly what I was doing.....on the filter housing, there are four lines, 2 going forward, two back. On the front one closest to the chassis, I peeled back the rubber boot, and diconnected the quick disconnect from the filter. That left me with a hard plastic line, convered in a rubber sheath, with a 90 degree plastic fitting which connects to the filter. Buggered if i could get that plastic fitting out of the hard plastic line to have a good look at it. From there, i dont follow the instructions. Is there a "check valve" inside the mouth of that 90 degree fitting? If so, how do you remove it?

You unscrew the fitting from the filter housing. the check valve in in the back side of the fitting. it is held in by a O ring and will pull out by hand.

A few questions for the knowledgeable ones out there...
Can anyone tell me how much diesel overfilling of the sump we are talking about before risk of running on increases? Are we talking 1" above the full marker, 2", 10"???

The engine oil in my TD5 D2a was 1" above the full marker when I checked it on the weekend (whilst replacing the injector harness, but that is another story). I drained about 1L out of the sump to get it back to the full marker. I suspect it may have been overfilled at its last service a couple of weeks ago but I will be checking the dipstick very carefully for the next few weeks!

Also, how is it most likely that the diesel/oil mix then enters the combustion area and runs on? (Up past the pistons, vapours venting up to the tappet cover and through the vent pipe into the air intake, etc?)

Cheers,
Chris

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Originally Posted by cjc_td5

A few questions for the knowledgeable ones out there...
Can anyone tell me how much diesel overfilling of the sump we are talking about before risk of running on increases? Are we talking 1" above the full marker, 2", 10"???

The engine oil in my TD5 D2a was 1" above the full marker when I checked it on the weekend (whilst replacing the injector harness, but that is another story). I drained about 1L out of the sump to get it back to the full marker. I suspect it may have been overfilled at its last service a couple of weeks ago but I will be checking the dipstick very carefully for the next few weeks!

Also, how is it most likely that the diesel/oil mix then enters the combustion area and runs on? (Up past the pistons, vapours venting up to the tappet cover and through the vent pipe into the air intake, etc?)

Cheers,
Chris

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Gday Chris. It seems that we have common problems!!!! I'm in the same boat at the moment. My car is going in to have the injector seals looked at and a possable cracked head. I'm the one who had the chaffed fuel line "stuck in the snowy's"
Regards
Robbo

there are alot of people with this problem at the moment! I am one of them i have noticed an increase in my oil level by about 10-15mm and its really diluted!
i would suspect that not many people would know how much diluted diesel oil you would need to have a runaway, my opinion would be enough to get caught in the blow by of the pistons so a fair bit any one else have an idea?
i am tearing out my injectors tommorrow to replace the o-ring and the copper washers in the head and hopefully i dont find any cracks!:(

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Originally Posted by bluelightdisco

there are alot of people with this problem at the moment! I am one of them i have noticed an increase in my oil level by about 10-15mm and its really diluted!
i would suspect that not many people would know how much diluted diesel oil you would need to have a runaway, my opinion would be enough to get caught in the blow by of the pistons so a fair bit any one else have an idea?
i am tearing out my injectors tommorrow to replace the o-ring and the copper washers in the head and hopefully i dont find any cracks!:(

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Let me know how you get on mate. Good luck.
Regards Robbo.

well i consulted my recently aquired workshop manual and bought some new o rings and copper washers and was a bit taken back by how complex it is to actually change the injector seals, remove the rocker setup, first half of the head possibly even camshaft then purchase specially made landrover tools to extract injectors and replace o rings, new seals every where cant re-use them hmmmm to hard basket.... in it goes now what do i do? dont have the money to pay the mechanic to do it and dont have the tools or experience nessesary to complete the job wonder if anyone wants to buy a cheap D2 LOL;)

I got quoted around $450 to replace injector seals. She's going in on the 30th to have this done and to check for any more issues.
Regards
Robbo

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Originally Posted by bluelightdisco

well i consulted my recently aquired workshop manual and bought some new o rings and copper washers and was a bit taken back by how complex it is to actually change the injector seals, remove the rocker setup, first half of the head possibly even camshaft then purchase specially made landrover tools to extract injectors and replace o rings, new seals every where cant re-use them hmmmm to hard basket.... in it goes now what do i do? dont have the money to pay the mechanic to do it and dont have the tools or experience nessesary to complete the job wonder if anyone wants to buy a cheap D2 LOL;)

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I did mine as a precautionary measure. Took no more than 2hrs with out any special tools. Actually I tell a lie. I had to thin a spanner on the grinder to get the fan off so I could turn the engine over from above, but thats it.