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Thread: Fuel gauge reading high

  1. #1
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    Fuel gauge reading high

    I have recently replaced the fuel pump in my TD5 and now My fuel gauge reads 1/3d higher than it should. Ie. I am showing over 1/3d on the gauge and I have driven 1000k's since filling up. (Standard tank)

    The new sender shows about 30 to 300 odd ohms from full to empty and the old sender is similar. (Rave says 8 to 560 I think)

    Before blaming the new genuine pump I put the old pump back in and it shows a similar error.

    Interesting that it happened at the same time the new pump went in though.

    I am open to ideas on what could cause a controlled decrease in resistance on the sender <-> instrument wires, because It can't be the pump.


    Pete

  2. #2
    midal Guest
    I'm afraid I don't have the answer to your electrical question, however I'm rather impressed that you get 1,000 klms from a standard 95 lt tank and it's still going

    I've had some good fuel economy from mine (standard config ex factory) but not as good as that by involving town driving at all....long distance touring on cruise control usually contributes to good fuel economy but some town driving would certainly lower it from the 1,000klm range.
    You must be a very careful driver.

  3. #3
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    mines always read high,,
    it takes over 150kays before it moves off full,,

    and the last 3rd of the guage takes around ten minutes on the highway!!
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  4. #4
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    When I replaced the float in my P38A, it read low. It was suggested that I put Testbook on it to see if there was a fuel gauge recalibrate option.

    There wasn't but there was a fuel gauge diagnostic. I tried that and now my fuel gauge reads spot on when full.

    Don't ask me why. Maybe the D2 with all its electronics will be the same. I can check Testbook to see if there is a D2 fuel gauge diagnostic if you like.
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  5. #5
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    If you have easy access then it certainly can't hurt, cheers. Then I just need to find somebody in Adelaide northern suburbs who has one..


    Quote Originally Posted by p38arover View Post
    When I replaced the float in my P38A, it read low. It was suggested that I put Testbook on it to see if there was a fuel gauge recalibrate option.

    There wasn't but there was a fuel gauge diagnostic. I tried that and now my fuel gauge reads spot on when full.

    Don't ask me why. Maybe the D2 with all its electronics will be the same. I can check Testbook to see if there is a D2 fuel gauge diagnostic if you like.

  6. #6
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    Until I disturbed the pump I would get near 100k's from full before it would move then once the low fuel light came on it was good for 150k's comfortably.

    I can handle a gauge that reads low, but one that reads high is just asking for trouble.

    Quote Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift View Post
    mines always read high,,
    it takes over 150kays before it moves off full,,

    and the last 3rd of the guage takes around ten minutes on the highway!!

  7. #7
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    In a nutshell, I drive like a granny . I don't usually get this low but I was hoping to get a rapid drop near the end of the tank. Filling up to the neck gives an extra litre or two I figure

    My 100k commute is all at 90kph and only has half a dozen traffic lights.
    Near factory standard, manual, road tyres pumped up hard and winter so no aircon running. Pretty much perfect fuel economy conditions.

    I budget 10/100 unless I have the boats on the back and then I work with 11.5


    Quote Originally Posted by midal View Post
    I'm afraid I don't have the answer to your electrical question, however I'm rather impressed that you get 1,000 klms from a standard 95 lt tank and it's still going

    I've had some good fuel economy from mine (standard config ex factory) but not as good as that by involving town driving at all....long distance touring on cruise control usually contributes to good fuel economy but some town driving would certainly lower it from the 1,000klm range.
    You must be a very careful driver.

  8. #8
    midal Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by peter5111 View Post
    In a nutshell, I drive like a granny . I don't usually get this low but I was hoping to get a rapid drop near the end of the tank. Filling up to the neck gives an extra litre or two I figure

    My 100k commute is all at 90kph and only has half a dozen traffic lights.
    Near factory standard, manual, road tyres pumped up hard and winter so no aircon running. Pretty much perfect fuel economy conditions.

    I budget 10/100 unless I have the boats on the back and then I work with 11.5
    Yes, on reflection I guess there's not a lot of difference. My common commute apart from work is about 120klms and I usually sit around the 108kph mark with the occassional spurt to 120-130 to get around road trains. Thankfully no traffic lights in this area (please don't let the shire read this). Mine's auto so I should allow for that too.

    My gauge usually starts to drop at the 96klm mark (surprisingly consistent) but I try not to let the tank get too low and suck up any possible crud at the bottom of the tank.

    Anyway, sorry about the thread hijack. Sounds like it may be a gauge recalibration required if you haven't disturbed the float at all.

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