Dusted TD5

:D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by clubagreenie

I'm at a bit of a loss to understand why it seems so expensive to rebuild these diesel engines. I'll admit to never having played with one (yet, have a project to turn for a drag car). But were talking at least half the price I can build a 600hp toyo V8 for that'll run reliably to 8000 and sit on 6000 all day.

Is it machining, parts, or are some just paying too much labour? Bottom end assembly isn't difficult and certainly not out of the question if you're able to remove the engine from the car. I see the same issue in boat engines. Inlaws paid over 10k for a V6 chev/mercruiser rebuild. The parts alone (were) 5.5k until I investigated and could source the same parts retail for less than 2k.

Personally I think some just add a public tax for things like diesels and boats just beacause people assume they're expensive because they get quoted more than once exorbitant prices and everyone complains about the prices so it must be right.

Theres no difference in machining a block (apart from individual setup) wether it be alloy or cast, petrol, diesel, car or boat. Bearings, pistons, rings, gaskets, still not that much.

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Can I take that as a quote to rebuild my TD5 for $2k?

Hello again everybunny!!!

Finally got my Disco finished. I will try to answer all the questions, but first the cost....

1. Engine rebuild; $ 4,717.00,
2. Parts; $ 2,098.94,
3. Ceramics: inlet, exhaust, engine pipe; $ 1,250.00,
4. Freight; $ 599.24,
5. Accessories, non-essential improvements $ 2,710.91,
6. Total; $11,376.09 :o

Heinz installed a liner in No.1, machined all to 0.5mm oversize (the only Kolbenschmidt over size piston) machined the head, exhaust manifold face, valves and seats, bearings, seals etc. I would call this a total factory re-build. He also replaced the water pump, cam chain and sprockets, oil pump chain and sprockets (yes oil pump bolt secured with locktight),
fuel feed hose (replaced regulator a while ago but not this hose), fan bearing, water housing, replaced the oil heater with a Jordan Rover Tech bypass pipe, all the gaskets and seals (naturally).

We had a little trouble starting, Kevin Falconbridge has a method which includes pumping the accelerator five times and then waiting for the ECU to retrain itself followed by start up, which apparently worked as I was not present. The procedure in the user handbook works when one changes the fuel filter so I am certain this too is correct.

The engine starts easily and runs very smoothly (bloody want to!!) but is a bit slower off the mark. This may be because the engine is tight, only driving will tell.

The ceramic coatings (Competition and Industrial Coatings (Kelmscott)) are working, the turbo is much cooler and I can rest my hand on the original heat shield while running. The turbo cools very quickly on shut down, the oil filter feels much hotter, so no more burned hands! The inlet manifold also feels very cool and does not appear to be absorbing as much heat from the engine bay. I am now wondering if a set of silicon hoses will be worth while?

Unfortunately, my good lady wife is driving the chariot to work this week, hopefully I will get to play with it next weekend. Will have to keep an eye on the fuel consumption to ensure this is improved.

Well, that is all, any questions please post or message me.

Regards, roverphiles!

Michael. :D

PS 1. Heinz reckons the Mining companies are modifying thier Toymota TDV8 to reduce power and / or road speed to protect the mining community from themselves. The evidence is that the engines never seem to heat up correctly and become clogged with exhaust rubbish. The inlet tracts I saw were filthy, though so was the TD5 before I took off the EGR.
2. By the way, I believe the oil from my air filter was binding with the exhaust soot as there was a very thick, tough layer of gunk (technical term) in the inlet manifold which took Paul at Competition and Industrial Coatings, several days to remove!!!!:mad:

Now that is some rebuild.

I like the idea of the coatings, did you consider coating the piston crowns, valves and head area and turbo housing? Did Competition and Industrial Coatings provide advice or just do as asked?

Others might know? Don't know if all the coatings offered are applicable to turbo diesels or just for high octane petrol or other spark ignition engines.

Combustion area isn't that known for benefiting from coatings. We tried crowns but found no real benefit, but we did have oil squirters as well. Better to reduce radiant heat from manifolds, turbo housings etc.

Roverphiles,

Sorry for the delay,

Slug Burner, yes I was advised by Paul and Allan at CIC that ceramic coating the valves, heads and pistons is appropriate, however I could not convince Heinz, as he was concerned that although this works well for engines which run for relatively short periods then stripped and rebuilt (as in a racing engine), he thought the metal expansion would be uneven over the head area causing gasket leaks, and for the pistons, as the working temperature size of the pistons had not been measured, the bore clearance may be incorrect. This could be solved with coating the pistons then heating to operating temperature measuring and then boring the cylinders to fit, but after all the other work, Heinz stated I would not gain as much as with the inlet and exhaust which had been done.

Now that I have run-in the engine it is running very much more smoothly than before, and quieter too, but I can't proove this. The ceramics are also working well with much less under bonnet heat, noticably better acceleration and much smoother "drive". I have yet to take the monster out and off the leash, say a couple of hours on the highway, but that will come soon.

Lastly, I have installed a oil filter relocation which was working very nicely, and now should be even better as the cooling air will not be superheated by the exhaust. I have yet to re-install with fancy new hose and fittings, but soon.........

Cheers,

MS