Thread: TD5 Fuel Pump crapped out :( @ 200k

Originally Posted by LandyAndy

BUGGA.
Can they be changed by dropping the tank???
Andrew

Gday Andrew,
Done a couple of these now, and you need to access the top thru the floor cover to remove the fuel lines.. so you will be no better off dropping the tank..plus it installs from the top so there is no need

Just a hint.Whilst you have the access cover off, get some conduit or similar and sleeve it over the 4 fuel lines to the pump, this will save them from rubbing thru where they come from the front of the tank to the pump..It will save alot of stuffing around in the future, had to repair this problem on our Canning trip on 1 disco..

Cheers Ean

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

so how do Td5's work?

theres an in-tank pump, then a lift pump, [via cooler] then injection?

why is diesel so much trouble to pump?

Get MODERN you TROGLODITE
There is the in tank pump,the diesel travels to the head at pretty good pressure.The injectors are unit injectors,basicaly each one is a camshaft driven pump.There is no "fuel rail" as such,the diesel flows thru a passage in the head.When the returns(unused)diesel exits the head it goes thru the fuel cooler then it heads back to the tank.
The fuel cooler is there to stop the fuel in the tank becoming a heated bomb.Touch a TD5 fuel filter after a decent drive,you will be surprised how hot it is.
Andrew

Originally Posted by LandyAndy

Get MODERN you TROGLODITE
There is the in tank pump,the diesel travels to the head at pretty good pressure.The injectors are unit injectors,basicaly each one is a camshaft driven pump.There is no "fuel rail" as such,the diesel flows thru a passage in the head.When the returns(unused)diesel exits the head it goes thru the fuel cooler then it heads back to the tank.
The fuel cooler is there to stop the fuel in the tank becoming a heated bomb.Touch a TD5 fuel filter after a decent drive,you will be surprised how hot it is.
Andrew

Without checking RAVE, I was under the impression that the TD5 pump was a 2 stage pump also, with a low pressure system through the filters and a high pressure system to the engine before the injectors bump it up to ludacris pressures. I also thought that the pump worked as a swirl pot too.

Brief Update,

After bitching around with the UK supplier, turns out the non genuine pump was out of stock, they finally shipped it on the friday before my return from overseas. A genuine pump arrived on the monday morning. 200 GBP, and fitted and running again within 30 minutes (had to wash my hands). I now have a handy access hole in my carpet under my load mat.

It was nice to hear that wine again

I did mine the other day too. I hear you loud and clear (with that wine!)

My Disco II TD5 (I just bought to replace my stolen C130) won't start ... grrrhhh ... I'm ignorant - no clue what the problem is - motor turns but doesn't sound anything like starting. After each short attempt the whiring from the tank pump goes for 4-5 seconds.

From what I've read in this thread it looks like you pull up the back carpet and look for cover etc. But pulling up the back carpet look nigh impossible without destroying a dozen plastic clips that LR sells for dollars each ...

Your advice on checking the pump would be much appreciated.

on a quite day sit down beside the drivers side of your car with the door open.

turn the ignition to run, did you hear the relays click and the pump start up? no, then you have either a relay or fuel pump problem.

If you heard the relay click go give the bottom of the tank a mighty whack with a rubber mallet. if the pump then doesnt start its time to check the voltages at the Fuel pump relay and the pump. if that's not right fix that and give the procedure another go. if that doesnt fix it its the pump and it needs to be replaced.

I suggest at this point buying a RAVE cdrom.

It may be the immobilizer

try this lock the car then unlock then try starting it.