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me either, but how many DIY'ers use a new washer and a torque wrench to do up their sump plugs.. lets be really honest, how often does it happen in workshops?
plus if you own a landy and dont have a tube of 567 on hand (along with a miryad of other goops) your probabley not aware of all the wonderfull leaks you can stop with loctite 567 (and a myriad of other goops) or you dont have any oil left to leak out.
Im at Maitland, Thanks for the offer.Quote:
Originally Posted by robbotd5
Hopefully the guys at work can loosen it tomorrow RAAF WLM.
Will see how I go either way Im going to put a new bolt in as it wasnt that great to start with.
Dazza
Problems removing the sump plug is surprisingly common for something so basic, usually caused by dealer or workshop overtightening. Plenty of previous posts & threads on here to search the issue and suggested fixes. The problem for the DIYer is you need one hand to fight gravity & hold it on & the other to turn. Seen lots of suggestions from putting the jack under socket to buying special sockets to use when its got too burred--seen them at bunnings but $xx. Having gone thru it myself I got a new plug & now make sure I use a HEX socket & just tighten it enough to not leak. I eventually got mine off by making it a 2 man job, one to hold the socket on (burred-needed to hammer on) & the other to turn--a bit cramped and messy but it eventually worked.
Cheers
Discolaw
Hi there,Quote:
Originally Posted by biggin
Yes the copper washer is very important and a bit of extra goo on the threads does no harm, especially after changing the oil many times the aluminium sump thread starts to become worn and maybe prone to weeping.
I am also very conscious of the fact that an ALUMINIUM sump housing and a steel sump plug can easily be overtightened and result in a cracked sump or sheared of bolt. So go gently....
Then the real trouble begins!
BTW if changing the oil in the diffs, the plugs to my amazement are made of black PLASTIC and can be over tightened and stripped very easily.
The transfer box plug and drain are the same as the sump and caution is needed as applied to the sump area. Go gently :whistling:
The plug on the Deefer was the same when I bought it. A big piece of pipe and a push with both legs did it.
The plug had a few unhappy threads so will have to be replaced next service. It is okay for now but I'm wary of it.
The black plastic plugs in the diffs are sometimes even replaced by the stealers at the 1st diff oil change. If not, get brass replacement ones. MR automotive have them.
Cheers
Discolaw
Well all sorted all4x4 boys gave it a love tap for me, i now have I'm sure 3rd degree burns on a pinky and am sitting back having a rum. Those that know me know I have a sight and height problem so a little stool and big light helped.
Thanks for help and offers
Dazza
Good to hear mate. As someone has already said, the ham fisted stealers are to blame on most occasions, in my experiance, i've had the head rounded off on one of the fuel pressure regulator bolts, stripped thread on one of the rotor filter housing bolts and last but not least, the engine oil sump. I had to use a breaker bar to get it un done. That was the last time it went back to the dealer. I repaired all these items myself I dont trust many when it comes to my cars. The sump plug needs a new copper washer and TORQUED to 23Nm (in reality not real tight!!). Torque wrenches are cheap and easy to use and torque values are REALY important. I use one for everything I can get it on to.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dazza67
Regards
Robbo.