Thread: ARB v Detroit v ?? Diff Locker

I'm a fan of auto lockers. I know they are not everyone's cup of tea, but I put one in the front and rear of my hilux and think it was the best mod I could have done there are the cheap lockright one's and you do hear the ratchet sound when you go around corners. When I got my rangie a few weeks ago and put it on the hoist to check it out I turned one of the rear wheels and heard a faint clicking that I was very happy to hear, this car is a auto an when driving it you don't even know it's there. Don't know what brand it is

Both my diffs were fairly stufffed and so I decided to fit ARB's front and rear (the cost of replacement Rover diffs was not much different). My main thought was that when we have our camper behind off road, we can go slower and make it easier on the car and camper. Fact is, it's just transformed the vehicle!
No mods to axles or cv's at this stage as we don't go looking for extremes but hey, the guys from Coffs (incl longstroker) gave us a good workout a few months ago and we certainly had no probs.
Given the choice again.... I'd go the air lockers as I like to know when they are in or when they're not...just me I guess.

We LOVE our Lockers!

iv got arb rear,, and one just found out iv got slitly twisted axels, still had no probs just CBF puting the new ones in, been in some prity crazy spots tho, rather twist then snap, so can;t be that bad

but since iv had a locker, nothing macanical has gone wrong, (i dident just say that did i) do everything so much slower, but when your stuk with a locker, your proply stuck

I've got a detroit locker in the rear(def 02) with Hytuff axles to make sure it's all sweet. With the current exchange rate you can get a detroit(from the U.S) for around 1/2 what an air locker costs. The only difference is when you go around off camber roundabouts it gets a bit jerky if your gentle on the gas.
In saying this i would love to be able to buy a complete front maxi drive system with locker , axles and CV's to handle any stuff up by me.

Hi Guys, thought i would ask here as it has been said here that the trutrack performs well with the tc on the D2.

Can some one explain how a trutrack would help as to me it seems that the traction control would do the same thing only going about it a different way.
Thanks.

Originally Posted by freedriver

Hi Guys, thought i would ask here as it has been said here that the trutrack performs well with the tc on the D2.

Can some one explain how a trutrack would help as to me it seems that the traction control would do the same thing only going about it a different way.
Thanks.

TC needs a wheel to spin before it can act - which means that important momentum can be lost. A TT limits the ability of the wheel to spin in the first place. However if you lift a wheel completely off the ground with a TT, it will spin - however TC will stop that.

People I know who have tried vehicles with: (manual) Lockers or TC or TC+TT, have said that a vehicle with TC+TT is as capable as a vehicle with manual lockers (i.e. ARB/Maxi-Drive).

Originally Posted by isuzurover

TC needs a wheel to spin before it can act - which means that important momentum can be lost. A TT limits the ability of the wheel to spin in the first place. However if you lift a wheel completely off the ground with a TT, it will spin - however TC will stop that.

People I know who have tried vehicles with: (manual) Lockers or TC or TC+TT, have said that a vehicle with TC+TT is as capable as a vehicle with manual lockers (i.e. ARB/Maxi-Drive).

Ben - thats not quite correct. The truetrack also needs a wheel to slip (be turning at a different rate) for the centre to transfer power to the more stationary wheel.
Saying that i think the TC will need a wheel to spin a lot more before it kicks in...
I defintely agree that a car with TC and TT is a mean combination, they defintely completement each other. The TT makes up for the faults in theTC system.

Regards, Steve.

Originally Posted by awabbit6

Me too. If I ever change from open diffs, I'll definitely go with Tru-tracs.

My reasons:

• No need to flick a switch - they just work
• No extra expense of axle upgrades as they should put any more load on the axles than the TC does.
• Price

I believe that the original Hummers (HMMWV) use Tru-trac (Torsen) style diffs with TC and CDL also. The US military wouldn't have used it if it wasn't good (I don't think anyway ... )

Couple of issues i have with this,

Not needing to flick a switch = cheating in my book, lockers are a fail safe, i try everything open, get stuck, rear, still stuck? front it is.

I bit the bullet early and have replaced everything from the transfer out. Needless to say about $8k later the drivetrain goes great! BUT my main rationale was that SWMBO drives the car and the last thing i need is her to be going around an off camber round about in the rain and it go twin locked automatically on her.

Im a big fan of the switches and thats my suggestion. A bit more expensive but definately worth it