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Thread: Truetrac for the front

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by biggin View Post
    Bugger! I thought I actually made a decision.
    I may hold out for some more opinions.
    Cheers,
    biggin

    Nah - you are the person who has to drive the vehicle - so you are the person who has to be happy with what you do.

    I thought there had been plenty of points made for and against so I would go with your gut decision.

    Good luck with it.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  2. #22
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    Not quite the same price ... a Detroit really needs a HD Axle .. so that will need to be added to the cost. If the weak Rover axle goes it will almost always take the Detroit with it. Not so with the TT ... HD axles certainly would be nice with the TT but are not as necessary as they are with a full locker. Just my 2 cents.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by IceFyre View Post
    . If the weak Rover axle goes it will almost always take the Detroit with it..
    I always wonder where this comes from, I've seen detroits with broken stock axles, never been an issue......I feel this is an interweb furphy from a one off

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by biggin View Post
    Thanks JC. 2 x TT it is.
    Thanks for the tips Rovercare. Time to purchase a dial gauge perhaps. I don't suppose a vernier would do the job.
    Not unless you can measure thousands of an inch accurately with a vernier

    Surely someone closeby will give you a lend of a dial indicator

  5. #25
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    I have also heard this too but I am not sure it is an issue. When I put my detroit in I had a close look at things in the detroit (not that I have an issue in the 101). My understanding that if the axle breaks it will most likely be in the splines with a bit of shrapnel flying around but the broken piece of axles staying in the side gear. I doubt the shrapnel would cause any more damage to the locker diff than it would do any other diff.

    If it does damage the detroit how does it happen and what goes?

    Cheers

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  6. #26
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    Could very well be the case of a mate's sister-in-laws third cousins work mate broke one ...

    I am only going on what I have read on Discoweb and from other Web Forums. I have never spoken to someone directly about it.

    Personally would I have liked a full locker in the back .. yes. Could I have afforded it at the moment (with HD axles) .. no . Am I happy with the two TT ... yes.

    As Garry said its ultimately your decision as to what your happy with.

  7. #27
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    Slightly "off topic", I have just ordered an ARB for the rear or mine, still "considering" HD shafts at a later date, but for now wondered who runs and ARB with factory shafts ?

  8. #28
    discolaw Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Urban Panzer View Post
    Slightly "off topic", I have just ordered an ARB for the rear or mine, still "considering" HD shafts at a later date, but for now wondered who runs and ARB with factory shafts ?
    Been a few previous posts on this. The consesus is you need to be aware and drive accordingly. Without HD gear use the ARB to walk up not charge up. Problem is the diff lock will get you into situations where you need to be "robust" so there will be always an anxious thought in the back of your mind. I have just avoided the issue gone the TT front & rear route. Not as good as a full locker but pretty good with TC. Also 1.-cheaper 2. no HD axles etc. 3. invisible 3. onroad driveability unchanged. 4 no special maintenance, oils etc.5. stronger than std diff centre. About $1250 with bearings to your door from Bill at Great Basin Rovers, Utah.
    Cheers Discolaw.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by discolaw View Post
    Been a few previous posts on this. The consesus is you need to be aware and drive accordingly. Without HD gear use the ARB to walk up not charge up. Problem is the diff lock will get you into situations where you need to be "robust" so there will be always an anxious thought in the back of your mind. I have just avoided the issue gone the TT front & rear route. Not as good as a full locker but pretty good with TC. Also 1.-cheaper 2. no HD axles etc. 3. invisible 3. onroad driveability unchanged. 4 no special maintenance, oils etc.5. stronger than std diff centre. About $1250 with bearings to your door from Bill at Great Basin Rovers, Utah.
    Cheers Discolaw.
    thanks for the reply, If im honest I always prefer to "walk" up any way as I like to "feel" the vehicle doing the work rather than momentum, charging up is the time when I feel damage is going to happen.

  10. #30
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    i got arb with standed sharfts, iv twisted a colpe of them but never broken, with the arb 95% of the time you can walk up, and thats alot softer on everything, il be getting a TT in the front when the money comes around

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