How to replace the Td5 viscous fan bearing

I followed the instructions on the thread. Worked very well.

I found the trick, like the instructions say, is to keep the bearing and shaft very cold - sitting on a cold block so they can't gain any heat.

I used a small blow torch to gradually heat up the housing very evenly - over about 3-4 minutes. It was fairly warm - certainlly when I flicked spit on it there was a satisfying hiss!. When you reckon its hot enough turn the blowtorch of then.... quickly....with total commitment get the bearling and shaft off the ice quickly, line up and push it in so the back of the shaft hits the back of the housing.

It was the most stressed I've been for a while but worked like a treat.

Excellent instructions...well done Dutchviking!

Willis

Dutchviking you are a star.

My two Bobs worth here is that an 1/2 inch drive Torx bit in a T60 size is almost just right for the "hex" tool. on the Hex bits 11mm is to small, 12mm is to big, 7/16 is a bit loose as well, the T60 is as close as I can get. I busted my 3/8 drive adapter bit so ended up cutting down a 12mm Hex to fit.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Matt

Once I put the belt on and started the TD5 it was a different engine, lower Idle and so much smoother without the fan. With the new fan on it isn' tas bad as the old fan but still noisy and the bearing whistled a little until it warmed up, hope it had enough. I think the Aircon bearing is sounding a bit sandy.

Anyway after feeling the engine without the fan hanging off the front I an so keen to fit the electric fans.

cheers

Matt

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Originally Posted by dutchviking

Finally changed the viscous fan pulley bearing. You could feel it was on its way out by turning the pulley with the belt removed - felt like there was sand inside and made a slight rumbling sound when turned by hand.

The procedure, when you know it, is dead easy and takes about 2 hours.
I tried to remove the flange some time ago, but couldn't get it loose. Now I know why. Based on the image in Microcat I just could not understand how the assy was put together, and more important, how to remove the bearing from the front cover. I just ordered the parts involved, shaft, bearing, cir-clip and flange to better understand how it was put together.

I started by making a "special" tool that fitted inside the shaft (hex tool) so I could fit a ratchet on its end.

Then remove belt and pulley. I used Land Rover Tool LRT-12-093 and LRT-12-094 to undo the viscous fan and the three pully bolts. I will actually not refit the fan because a) it's winter here in Norway and soon temperatures will be minus 15 to 20 again, b) the fan has mostly no use at all so c) it will be replaced by a 2 stage automatic Kenlowe fan later.

After pulley removed you use 3x 8mm bolts of about 25mm in length and bolt the LRT-12-093 tool back to the flange. Then rotate the tool CLOCKWISE and support it by a large piece of wood. Use a small torch for about a minute to warm-up the shaft as you have to soften the thread-lock that holds the flange in place. Now use the hex tool or home made adapter and a ratchet, I had to use a 1 meter extension pipe over the ratchet's arm to undo the flange. TURN THE RATCHET ALSO CLOCKWISE. It gave with a bang, I initially thought I'd broke the ratchet:o Remove the flange. Remove the cir-clip. Put the flange including the LR tool back on, now support it with a piece of wood on the left (Counter Clockwise (CCW)) side of the engine bay and using different things, from wood, nuts, ratchet pipes, anything in your toolbox could do, to fill-up the space between flange and front cover. The bearing and shaft will slowly but surely come out by turning the ratchet CCW.

I used a press to install the bearing on the new shaft, since I bought it, but the old shaft can be re-used! Then put the shaft with bearing in the fridge at minus 20 for about 45 minutes. In the mean time clean the front cover opening where the bearing sat. Get the shaft + bearing and keep it cold with some camping ice blocks. Heat-up the surroundings of the front cover where the bearing will go back-in, including the inside, with a mild flame for about 3-4 minutes, spreading the heat all of the time, so never too long at one spot.

Then take the shaft and bearing assy and it will drop straight in.

Put the cir-clip back in place and install the flange, holding the shaft with your hextool and using the LR tool attached on the flange with 3 bolts. Turn clockwise until the flange bottoms out on the bearing. Tighten. (I used 20Nm).

That's it! Apart from the Land Rover tools, the bearing required has p/n ERR5285.

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Hi,

I just wanted say a nig THANK YOU for posting this on here it has been a god send.

My baby is all fixed now and like you said putting it in the frezzer and warming the housing helps heaps.
Thank you again:P

I have removed this bearing for replacement again in the last couple of days after changing it just on 2 years ago :mad:
I recently noticed a bit of a squeak when idling and particularly when shutting down and initially dreaded that this might be the harmonic balancer on its way out. After removing the fan and belt, a quick check for play in the HB showed nothing, however, a jiggle of the viscous fan assy showed it to be loose. Really annoyed at this as I did the bearing 2 years ago and the job was done easily and without any issues. My initial thought was 'a dodgy chinese bearing' :mad: however, after removing the bearing I found that there was some wear in the actual housing at the base of the bearing. Can't quite figure why this has happened as the previous bearing went in without any problems and the circlip was definitely in the slot correctly.
Repaired (hopefully :eek:) the housing by applying a light smear of JB Weld and light rub with emery. Carefully checked the bearing still on the shaft and all seemed to be OK with no sign of wear or damage and smooth rotation. Reinstalled this bearing and put everything back together. No play in the bearing now and no 'squeaky' noise.
The only thing that seemed to be not right was that when I attached the fan removel spanner (TD5 Alive) during the removal process, it would not fit neatly onto the flange and therefore I could not use the existing 3x fan bolts as they were too short. I had to use 2x approx 1" long bolts to be able to attch the spanner due to the collar on the adaptor being slightly too wide. Once I had the flange off I noticed that if I turned the flange the other way round the spanner fits perfectly :o I thought that may I had put the flange on back the front and this may have caused the play in the bearing. When re-installing the flange this time I put it the opposite way round and all seemed to make sense except for the fact that when I did the flange up tight, it locked the flange against the housing which caused it to bind and not rotate. The collar on each side of the flange is a different length. I removed the flange again before the thread locker had time to set and reversed it. This time I had the same issue with the spanner not fitting on the flange the way it looked like it should, and tightened against bearing and finally put everything else back together. I might be wrong but it seems as though the TD5 Alive spanner design has been a bit of a boo-boo :eek:
Anybody else found this?

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Originally Posted by feral

How the hell do you get the bearing in? :twisted:

I decided to get a new shaft and bearing just to make life easier. Its been in the fridge freezer for a week! And here we have instructions to pop it in for less than an hour.

And then it should just slide in :angrylock: Propane gas bottle is too tall so I have to heat the casing with the bottle upside down, and the flame keeps going out. I imagine it doesn't like running upside down.

I don't know..I've run out of ideas.

I'm beginning to wish I'd paid some bloke to put up with this.

(Rant over...take a deep breath...sleep on it and try again tomorrow :()

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Sit the bearing in the housing whilst on flat ground, drive car at a wall at high speed, BINGO! Bearing should be fully seated. Hahaha.

Will

The bearing I used was of a higher ABEC rating. While I thought this would be fine, I was wrong. The ABEC rating is the tolerance to which the bearing is made. As the tolerances get lower (higher ABEC number) the very small gaps in the bearing gets less. This means the bearing is not able to shrink as much with cooling. I had my bearing in dry ice pellets for a couple of hours and heated the housing hot enough that I could't touch it comfortably and I still had a heap of trouble getting it to seat.

Happy Days.

Hi Guys

A must is to check out this website below for discovery 2 repairs and detail instructions on various repairs.

Example: viscous fan hub bearing replacement

www.discovery2.co.uk

Cheers

Steve

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Originally Posted by Steve Td5 130

Hi Guys

A must is to check out this website below for discovery 2 repairs and detail instructions on various repairs.

Example: viscous fan hub bearing replacement

www.discovery2.co.uk

Cheers

Steve

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x2 steve,
I've used this site over the last couple of years for details on verious repairs .... good site :)

further to my earlier post I meant to mention the bearing I used ... 2 years ago it was purchased from Timkin in Melbourne and was an SKF3206 priced at about $72 (trade) from memory and was supposedly about double that price retail. :(
The bearing I picked up for this current repair (and did not end up using) was a 5206-2RS normally priced at around $52 but I picked it up for $44.
Sounds like a good price, but when you look at what these companies buy them for (manufacturers search... shows around 90c to $1 each) you still can't help feel like your being ripped off. :mad:
I pity the average joe who has no mechanical aptitude and has to pay vast amounts of monies for repairs that are often fairly easy to undertake.
Thanks to forums like this and the wealth of knowledge imparted by its members we should think ourselves very fortunate:)
Although forums do exist for the inferior 4x4's :angel: the ones I've seen do not contain the wealth and depth of information that AULRO does.