Thread: D2 Oil Cooler pipes

disconect the pipes only after you have drained the box and take it to a hose specialist cost you at least a third of the price you said
cheers kelvin

The problem with that is that the pushlock fitting on the end of the line to the oil cooler is still retained, and the swaged connection between this and the hose is where they fail. $240 is a VERY good price for new ones, as long as they are Genuine ones.

Unless the hose repairer can swage a hose properly to the original pushlock fitting, then replace the pair with new.

BTW, Make certain it isn't the cooler leaking where the fitting is butt welded to the core tank. These are a joke as far as robust build is concerned

These run very high pressures.

JC

Originally Posted by justinc

The problem with that is that the pushlock fitting on the end of the line to the oil cooler is still retained, and the swaged connection between this and the hose is where they fail. $240 is a VERY good price for new ones, as long as they are Genuine ones.

Unless the hose repairer can swage a hose properly to the original pushlock fitting, then replace the pair with new.

BTW, Make certain it isn't the cooler leaking where the fitting is butt welded to the core tank. These are a joke as far as robust build is concerned

These run very high pressures.

JC

x2 re checking where the pipe is butt welded to the cooler - it is only alloy and is not very robust.

Originally Posted by disco_thrasher

disconect the pipes only after you have drained the box and take it to a hose specialist cost you at least a third of the price you said
cheers kelvin

I was talking to a bloke from ENZED ( hydraulic hose repairers) recently.

They have a fitting called a "lifesaver" ??? these come in different sizes to suit different pipe diameters.

It is a threaded /compression male fitting which can be silver-soldered onto the end of the oil transfer pipe ( where the crimped hose lets go/fails)

If you were to remove the oil-cooler and also silver-solder a lifesaver onto the pipe in place of the quick connect/ pushlock fitting ( may have to cut the pipe to a clean end??)..........

THEN..
they can make up a new hose(s) with loose compression nuts on each end... and these can be fitted between the pipe and the cooler..nipped up with a couple of spanners.

Sounds good in theory, but you would need to check pipe diameters and material ( ie steel not alloy at the cooler end?) etc

I have an early Td5 auto which is not leaking YET! but I will investigate this option eventually.
You may wish to do the homework first..given that you have a problem.

It would have to be cheaper ...and foolproof once done.

DO take notice of the weak spot where the pipe is fixed to the cooler body as outlined elsewhere in this thread.
You would need to be careful of any Twisting... when tightening the nut to the Lifesaver...if you used my repair method. (Use two spanners against each other)

I suggest you talk to an expert. I am sure PIRTEK ( the other major hydraulics repair specialist) would have a similar fitting.

If you go down this path ..take photos and do a How-To post for eveyone else.

Hope this helps

Cheers
Bob

I would strongly advise anyone with an auto regardless if your pipes are leaking or not to replace them as a matter of cause, these fail all to often and leave you stranded. As already stated its the "cripmed" part that simply blows off and dumps the slush fluid all over the place.

Have 5 friends with TD5 autos, 3 failed (including mine) and the other 2 were "inspected" and its obvious to see the crimp is moving "down the pipe" and would soon go, so these were changed as well.

They cost about £55 each from the Dealer, I and my friends replaced both sides, but it always seems to be the left hand pipe that fails.

with regards to getting a hose speacialist to make up new hoses ,a mate of mine called me last year over xmas and we was stuck out west with this exact problem so i went to a mate how run a well respected land rover service center asked if i could borrow these hoses and went to my hydrolic hose fitter which we use on all the machines at work by the afternoon he had 3 sets made up for $150 thats including the ends(i get a good deal tho) ,i then drove 3 hrs into western Qld and helped him fix it and it was a perfect fit still today going well and he has just come back from WA towing his 1.5t camper in a 2month trip
all i am trying to say dont overcomplicate thing any good hose specialist can fix any hose if he his any good
my 2c

Originally Posted by Xtreme

x2 re checking where the pipe is butt welded to the cooler - it is only alloy and is not very robust.

I've had one of these go on my car, has anyone come up with a way to strengthen the join? I noticed mine after I came back from a remote trip - hate to think of it going while out there!

thanks

Originally Posted by jwb

I've had one of these go on my car, has anyone come up with a way to strengthen the join? I noticed mine after I came back from a remote trip - hate to think of it going while out there!

thanks

The replacement cooler I got from BMI was not alloy and the welds on the inlet/outlet pipes were quite substantial. I am convinced that this one won't suffer the same problem as the original one.