Ultrasonic testing had 4.6 blocks being allocated blocks with the thickest wall thickness between liner and water gallery so maybe you had an unlucky block on the low end of acceptability or it slipped through and is D2 graded block. On account of this grading I would not touch a D2 block for a rebuild.
Having said that, I would still double check a couple of things because surely you used up all your bad luck on that stock and 2nd motor. Was the MAF upsized to a 4.6 version (air signal to match the 4.6 fuel map as loaded)????. and what were your average Scan Gauge coolant temperature readings for unloaded and loaded (towing) running?
T hatting or flange liners are the only way to prevent coolant loss via crack and up around the top of the liner into combustion chamber. Don’t let anyone tell you otherwise like pinning the bottom of the liner will do the trick etc. Apart from block cracking that is causing the slip, your block has a 360 degree “shoulder” already machined in the base of each bore to stop liner slippage. You can see this “shoulder” in the picture in the JE Robison blog above of the block they sawed in half.
I would also use studs and nuts instead of stretch head bolts on account of the correlation between tensioning action and crack locations in relation to bolt holes pointed out in the JR Robison blog, however I am surprised they made no mention of this bolt fix.
The good news is once done you have a better than new donk and that money has gone into the latest RV8 block (with tougher bottom end) all sitting in front of a 24 box. I doubt a D4 would get close to matching this set up for towing.

