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News to me, powerbled / flushed 2 diff vehicles with 3 amigo SVS faults, never had an issue tbh.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew D
The bottom line is, if you want a 100% fix for good, do Option B from the link below.
ABS Mod - Land Rover Club V.I.
I'm pretty sure I'm agreeing with you if you read what I said. The words 'broken' and 'fault' are not equal in terms of the SVS.Quote:
Originally Posted by Urban Panzer
I'm thinking broken means pulled out, smashed with a sledge hammer a couple of times then put back in as best as it can be after the sledge hammer treatment. With regards to the SVS I would consider it broken if one of the wires has been cut - the power bleed would not work.
(Break/Broken: reduced to fragments; Fault: defect or imperfection)
Regards
Andrew
Hmm, pays to speak to everyone in the know about ABS modulators, and then speak to them again when you know all the facts. My fault as first mentioned points to a electrical fault in the shuttle valve solonenoid block (part of the kit) , a broken wire or connection. Something that would cost $1.50 to fix on any other ABS other than WABCO. Since my first question I have spoken to experts that do nothing but repair faulty ABS units including WABCO, and indi LR mechanics including MR Auto and British offroad. All have said it is never going to be a "sticky" shuttle valve I've heard people talking about.
The ABS repair and recon experts can do a repair on the faulty sol block for $450 that requires the repair of the broken electrical connection as that is all that goes wrong with it. The problem is that none of the ABS repairers in Brisbane have the guts to do it. I found 2 in Sydney that do them all the time! Not to mention sending it to the multitude of ABS repairers in the USA.
If I was to go down that track, when I got the repaired block back, I would need to do a sloppy bleed job to drive it very carefully to get it into MR auto and have the brake system fully bled on the computer as this simulates ABS, TC activation and ensures no air is left in the system. This will cost about $80.
I agree that the quoted price I got from both MR and BO of $1350 IS TOO HIGH. But I intend keeping the broken block and sending it to Sydney to be repaired, giving me a cheaper option for our 2nd Disco 2..
No idea what the $15 option B was, Im only new to this forum, but if it's that cheap, can't imagine what it would be or how long it would last.
Another option is to change the switch pack in the base of the modulator. I have just done this. The part (genuine wabco) is about 180$
Link to how I did it:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/1393632-post43.html
link to switch pack:
Land Rover parts - SHUTTLE VALVE SWITCH PACK
Its about an hours work or so to do it.
Yeah mate did that , lasted 4 days then back to the 3 amigos. When I mention that part replacement to LR mechanics and ABS recon guys , they look at me like I just got given a dog poo sandwich instead of vegemite.
I know you are new to the forum and the following is not meant to be abrupt but have you actually bothered to read the "good oil" as previously advised by a few already? Or the link, posted by another member direct to the mod, you doubt will be any good?Quote:
No idea what the $15 option B was, Im only new to this forum, but if it's that cheap, can't imagine what it would be or how long it would last.
You seem to using up a lot of time and effort researching what has already been done, posted and moderators saved in this forum.
If you wish to doubt the suitability of a repair which you havent investigated or dont understand thats all ok, but probably better off just taking the advice of the expert who told you that any other modulator would be a $1.50 cheap fix, but since its a Wabco on a Land Rover...........
By your posts I'm guessing that you cant do this yourself so again take it to an "expert".
cheers
Given that he
I don't think he'sQuote:
can't imagine what it would be or how long it would last
which is a pity because he'd realise that option B is a very easy fix. It takes longer to move the unit to remove the switch than mod the switch. I've done 3, none mine so far. and have it down to just over an hour all up.Quote:
Originally Posted by strangy
I guess u could say I was in a similar position myself to The Big O, lack of time, knowledge, confidence etc so when my Disco was at the mechs for other issues my missus just said "get it fixed!" all up cost me just on $1200, supply & fit front right abs sensor, supply & fit reco abs modulator, system flush, refill & bleed etc. So, chances are, a "reco" abs modulator has had "option B" performed on it I would think.
Building confidence with everything I do to the Disco myself, if I end up in the same boat again with the amigo's, I'll have a crack at it myself, knowing in the back of my mind, if I cock up I've got the good people that make this forum the Best I've ever participated in to fall back on.
Big OQuote:
Originally Posted by Andrew D
Mate, had the same fault in my 2003 D2, did Option B. Fixed it.
Also I have offered to do it for free. Your choice. (Agree that Option B does sound too good to be true but guess what it's not. It will outlive the car).
By the way if you go ahead with sending the block to Sydney there's a greater chance you'll be back on the forum asking about 3 amigos again instead of doing Option B.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/good-oil/3...3-amigoes.html This is a link to option B. Urban Panzer has also posted the same link.
Regards
Andrew
Thanks for the link Andrew, I've seen that before, but couldn't find it again. This forum is huge and I'm still finding my way around it. I wouldn't be confident doing option B firstly with my inadequate electrical abilty and secondly, I wonder what a insurance or police mechanical examiner would make of it if something horrific was to happen and it came down the mechanical state of the vehicle. Worst case scenario I know.
I am keen to show this to an auto electrician and see if they would do the work, as I say, my previous auto electrical work has ended up costing me more money.
In relation to the other comments.......I was referring to the shuttle valve switch kit alone being used in an attempt to cure the problem,, didn't work and most LR and abs experts see it as a bit of a joke and an unsuccessful way of dealing with a different problem. Sure they will offer it to people to try, but after my "research" which did include the 3 option fix in the past, when talking with these guys they all say it's fix alright but in a different way.
Thanks for all the reply's, it's the result I was looking for, having joined this forum.