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Thread: TD5 Fuel Line Problems

  1. #1
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    TD5 Fuel Line Problems

    My BIL has had the fuel lines from the pump split or come loose (not sure) four or five times since he bought his D2a new. The first time was under warranty, the last was last week and cost $900. He is planning a caravan trip around Oz next year and is now understandably wary of the vehicle. Apparently it's not a roadside fix.

    Does anyone know what causes it, why it would happen so often to one vehicle and if there is a permanent fix?

    Stephen.

  2. #2
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    NOT normal to have it happen time and time again. The fitting of these lines requires careful routing to avoid the chafing on chassis etc. I have done 1 twice due to this, THAT won't happen again

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    NOT normal to have it happen time and time again. The fitting of these lines requires careful routing to avoid the chafing on chassis etc. I have done 1 twice due to this, THAT won't happen again

    JC
    JC
    Gotta check mine for this as it has done a lot of miles on corugated roads.Do they rub through above the tank?Or is it at the bracket forward of the tank on the chassis rail,that is easily visible.If it happens above the tank,can it be checked from under the vehicle or do you need to pull up the carpet & check it from the top.Or do they rub through around the fuel filter somewhere.

    Thanks in advance.

  4. #4
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    Hi paul,

    they can rub on Drivers side chassis rail where it joins the rear crossmember infront of the fuel tank, where the lines cross over from the filter and turn to go along the crossmember, then turn towards the fuel pump. The 'green' colour coded line is the main culprit, you can even buy it on its own complete with an adhesive sleeve to protect it from rubbing. It joins at the little bracket on the chassis rail (inside edge) and goes towards the front, and the other end goes all the way to the fuel pump. Alan at British4X4 sells the single line kit, a LOT cheaper than the whole manifold of pipes...

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  5. #5
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    Hey Fella's
    I have some experiance on this subject. Do a search on "stuck in the Snowy's" for the full story. Anyhow, my fuel line chafed through despite it being recalled by LR to fix the problem. It was the green banded line and it chafed through on the 90 degree bend immediately after the fuel pump. Could not get a spare for near two months and the car was in Talbingo and we live in Newcastle so I could not even play with it. When I got the spare, I went down with wifes Uncle who lives there and was looking after the D2a. Long story short, you do not have to cut your carpet, just pull it up out of the way, there you will see the metal cover over the pump. Remove this and you will see the fuel lines. Next you need to remove the fuel tank all together. Best done at or near empty. It has to come out at an angle (passenger side down) and be carefull of the filler neck on the drivers side. Once you have the tank out of the way you have unrestricted access to your fuel lines. I could not for the life of me find where the hose was rubbing (I have had the tank out twice). Where it rubbed through there was a pin head sized hole. On the new hose, I wraped the areas where the old one rubbed through with a heap of electrical tape and then wrapped the entire hose in that spiraled black plastic insulating sheath. Infact I did the same to all the lines in the vacinity. Also used a hand full of cable ties to neated everything up. Now I will be very suprised and ****ed off if it happens again. It is not a hard job just time consuming and yes it is hardly a roadside fix. Don't hesitate to contact me if I can help any more.
    Hope this helps.
    Regards
    Robbo.

  6. #6
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    No need to remove the tank. It is easy to do in situ, a bit tight to get your hand in etc but still better than taking out the tank, especially if you have a Hayman Reece etc in the way

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  7. #7
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    If you carry 2 push fit straight pnuematic connectors and a small length of nylon pipe, it could temp repaired anytime, even when out and about.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    Hi paul,

    they can rub on Drivers side chassis rail where it joins the rear crossmember infront of the fuel tank, where the lines cross over from the filter and turn to go along the crossmember, then turn towards the fuel pump. The 'green' colour coded line is the main culprit, you can even buy it on its own complete with an adhesive sleeve to protect it from rubbing. It joins at the little bracket on the chassis rail (inside edge) and goes towards the front, and the other end goes all the way to the fuel pump. Alan at British4X4 sells the single line kit, a LOT cheaper than the whole manifold of pipes...

    JC
    Checked mine today,seem OK at front & rear of fuel filter,they are covered with a sort of foil as well.Found mine badly chafed at that bracket forward of the fuel tank,on the chassis rail.The bracket supports the vehicles body.It has a sharp edge on it,very bad design.The coupling joining the fuel line actually pushes the fuel line onto the sharp edge of the bracket.Both fuel lines run through it.Not much movement to get something around it,but i will get it sorted shortly.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by scarry View Post
    Checked mine today,seem OK at front & rear of fuel filter,they are covered with a sort of foil as well.Found mine badly chafed at that bracket forward of the fuel tank,on the chassis rail.The bracket supports the vehicles body.It has a sharp edge on it,very bad design.The coupling joining the fuel line actually pushes the fuel line onto the sharp edge of the bracket.Both fuel lines run through it.Not much movement to get something around it,but i will get it sorted shortly.
    thats the bracket i meant, usuallly there isn't a problem at the filter side of the chasssis, it is all on the inside and top of the rail that the pipes are poorly routed.


    jc
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  10. #10
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    Are these potential chafing spots visible from underneath or are they in some inaccessible area, e.g. on top of the tank?

    Stephen.

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