Aftermarket Windows for 02D2

Morning all,
hope you are well... :-)

My research continues and I have been in contact with about 4 UK landrover 'specialists' and thus far, one has replied stating that no such option exists to convert the cargo windows to be opened. I am still waiting to hear from the guy in NSW and the rest from OS.

So far price wise and for those interested (Melb prices):

1. New sunroof and headliner fitted - 1200 > 2K depending on model
2. Factory sunroof kit from ES model from wreckers - 1K
3. Aftermarket air - 1K not fitted and some parts still needed or probably around 1500K fitted w/ extra parts....

I'm not wanting to spend that much money at all given whats already been spent on seats for the 3rd row area and work that needs to be done engine wise)...

Cheap option but not suitable from boating/caravan places are those oscillating fans but I think given the cargo space just won't work.

So in the interim my research continues for other products....

I've come across a few, again from overseas and locally which can probably be best described as fan blowers but the long rectangle ones which could either be roof or floor mounted, similar to under-dash aircon units only without the aircon unit/compressor etc.

Which brings me onto my question:

One of the products while it is 12V compatible has a recommendation for the product to be connected to a power source that can handle 15amps.

I do not understand volts, amps and how currents work in car batteries or with these 12V connections but would something like the amperage used be best connected directly to the cars main battery or would the 12V cigarette lighter connection be acceptible?

What ever unit I go with in the end, it's use would be while Lp is running not while in auxillary or similar mode - not sure if that has an impact on anything such as battery life....??

Seeking some help if someone can clarify please :-)

thanks again,

Lp

Quote:

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Originally Posted by landyprincess

I'm not wanting to spend that much money at all given whats already been spent on seats for the 3rd row area and work that needs to be done engine wise)...

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Hey LP, morning to you too.

A couple of options I can think of in reference to the windows being able to open at the cheapest price:

1. Pop out the existing windows and have hinges, plus a locking handle added to it. Drilling holes in the glass and adding those components isn't too tricky. However, attaching those hinges and locking mechanism to the fram of the car is a bit more complicated and will end up costing as much as getting a sunroof installed.

2. Pop out the existing windows, fill the window surround with a sill and runners for placement of sliding half glass, get new tempered glass cut to fit.
Again, I believe that this would be a costly exercise due to the one off manufacturing involved.

Not to discourage you from doing it, but I think it's very telling as to why nobody has done it before. It may be a safety requirement built into the design of the car that does not allow for the rear windows to open.

I'd be sticking with the idea of using electric fans until you've got the funds to install a sunroof or air con.

EDIT...
As to the 12v and 15amp question...

12V is the voltage that your battery puts out for accessories, such as your radio, cigarette lighter and the aux socket. The amps is the current draw from the device... In short, you won't drain the battery when your driving around with the fan on.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sully

Not to discourage you from doing it, but I think it's very telling as to why nobody has done it before. It may be a safety requirement built into the design of the car that does not allow for the rear windows to open.

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Thanks for the reply Sully, no discouragement on my part, i'm a stickler for my research and if it can help anyone else along the way, just as you are helping me out too....it's all good :-)

As for the safety requirement, I think its more a design / option flaw or lack there of. I know we are not talking about vans, but IMO i'd think they'd be alot more 'structurally' unsound than a landrover yet have windows such as what I am after available as aftermarket products. Probably comes more down to demand - it's probably just not there.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sully

As to the 12v and 15amp question...

12V is the voltage that your battery puts out for accessories, such as your radio, cigarette lighter and the aux socket. The amps is the current draw from the device... In short, you won't drain the battery when your driving around with the fan on.

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Now I am intrigued with this one... If the airconditioner, dvd head rests, radio and rear fan is going .... how does one work out the drain on the battery?

How many ON devices while the car is running can one run ? Is there a 'rule-of-thumb" out there or some 'technical' literature that you (or others) know of.... ?? Not sure if there's a black science to it all???

Maybe a better question to ask - at what point do people put in a dual battery?

Thanks,
Lp

You might find that opening windows in the rear 1/4 are illegal.

There's a limit how far back an opening window can be - something like 300mm (don't quote me on 300mm being exact though) from the exhaust.

Re the structural integrity, the disco windows are glued in and are a part of the frame structure. Just as the windscreen is now. In a caravan the windows have an external frame and so this provides structural support when they are open.

Also as above the exhaust must be at least x mm behind the most rearward opening on the vehicle, which is why you don't see many side exiting exhausts.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by clubagreenie

Also as above the exhaust must be at least x mm behind the most rearward opening on the vehicle, which is why you don't see many side exiting exhausts.

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Thx for the replies much appreciated - that does make sense. I am aware of the exhaust requirement in VIC ....

I should post a photo of hubbys exhausts on his FJ40 - completely illegal but nice pipe work !!! :eek:

Cheers,
Lp

edit - exhaust pic u/l - side exiting 15 degree angle :-) !!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by landyprincess

Now I am intrigued with this one... If the airconditioner, dvd head rests, radio and rear fan is going .... how does one work out the drain on the battery?

How many ON devices while the car is running can one run ? Is there a 'rule-of-thumb" out there or some 'technical' literature that you (or others) know of.... ?? Not sure if there's a black science to it all???

Maybe a better question to ask - at what point do people put in a dual battery?

Thanks,
Lp

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The devices in your car, radio, aircon, DVD, lights, potential fan in the back, all run from the alternator, not the battery.

From memory, the alterator puts out 130amps at idle and a max of 220 amps when running at speed.

You'll start to see the alternator struggling if you're running high powered extras constantly. Things like high powered stereo amplifiers, car fridges e.t.c.
You can often tell if an alternator is struggling at night time when there is excessive power drain by looking at the headlights of the car. If they grow brighter when the revs increase, or pulse with the beat of the stereo.

The factory alternator will handle running the aircon, stereo e.t.c. without any problems at all, so the addition of either a fan, or an aircon in the back won't cause any over the top drain which would cause the extra power required to come from the battery.

You would consider getting an extra battery for a couple of reasons. One being as an extra battery for jump starting (in the instance of your primary battery failing), another being for running aux items such as a winch, camping fridges/lights e.t.c so as to not cause drain on your primary battery which is used for starting the car.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sully

The devices in your car, radio, aircon, DVD, lights, potential fan in the back, all run from the alternator, not the battery.

You would consider getting an extra battery for a couple of reasons. One being as an extra battery for jump starting (in the instance of your primary battery failing), another being for running aux items such as a winch, camping fridges/lights e.t.c so as to not cause drain on your primary battery which is used for starting the car.

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Thanks for the reply - i've learnt something new!!

The generator does a more than good enough job and a gas fridge & hubby has the winch so not a biggie about the dual battery - one less thing to not have to look into LOL :-)

Cheers,
Lp



note - URL to my research as posted in market place alerts, if I am not allowed to put the link in here admins, pls remove. thx

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/marketplac...ml#post1413942

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scouse

You might find that opening windows in the rear 1/4 are illegal.

There's a limit how far back an opening window can be - something like 300mm (don't quote me on 300mm being exact though) from the exhaust.

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So how does a stock Defender qualify then? I assume the measurement is from the fore-most point of the fixed glass of the window.

Currently too lazy to go down and measure them at Derek's. ;)

Hi All,
I'm just re-visiting this old thread I started about additional air for the 3 and 4 year old in the cargo area from converting my 5 seater to a 7 seater.

In the end, I bought a small oscillating fan, extension cigarette cable and after a bit of mucking about have screwed the base of the fan into the top of the headboard lining (where the light @ the front is) and tucked the wires under the trim following from the top of the window/side of the dash/under steering column to cigarette plug.

Given the hot weather we have had, I was a bit dubious but must admit that on those 33+ degree days while strapping the kids into their seats in the cargo area - the combination of the fan oscillating and airconditioner worked a treat spreading the cool air.

All up the price of an oscillating fan & extension cable (<30$) has been a good outcome for me. I did need to put a screw hole (well two) into the upper top headboard to fix the base of the fan to but that's not a biggie for me.

I do get a bit of vibration (=noise) at the present time from the fan when its on and may tackle that with a cut to size strip of flat rubber and putting that in-between the base of the fan and bottom of the headboard trim. The noise personally doesn't bother me, after all how much more louder can it get with 4 noisy kids and the radio on lol ;)

(btw - no idea if it's called the headboard trim. The plastic stuff with the pockets / light up on the roof.)

I also purchased some black static cling window film (the ones with heaps of tiny holes) from a company in melbourne and cut those out 10mm in from the cargo windows and the alpine windows to reduce the heat for the kids in the back. An absolute bugger to cut but I find that works well too.

All in all, not an overly expensive exercise and very happy with the result :-D

Cheers,
Lp