Not necessarily... If it's reading 12.54 while sitting, switched off, I'd read that as the battery having positive charge.
If it was 12.54 while running, that would be low or a faulty alternator.
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Well I got it going. I reconnected the battery and even after 7 hours of being disconnected the horn still went off. this time I held the remote button down and the LED flashed on the remote. Kept holding the button and it turned the alarm off cool.
Tightened the terminal and started my truck. Very cool.
I have tested the battery again after a drive it was 12.7v 13.8v to 14.0 while the engine is running.
What should the alternator run at?
Now that I have my EKA code, can I use this to stop the alarm going off in the future if it does the crazy game again.
Thanks guys for your quick responses tonight.
cheers
Matt
13.8 to 14v is fine when revs are built up or at idle.
Yes, keep the EKA code handy. I keep mine with the manuals in the glove box, just in case the fob fails.
I knew a girl who locked the keys in the car. Help arrived with a coat hanger to unlock the door and retrieve the keys. Help suggested she keep a hanger in the glove box in case she locked the keys in again.
She still keeps one in the glove box..."just in case"...true story.:D
The D2 alarm makes a truly impressive noise!:eek::eek::eek:
For info, the Disco alarm receiver is prone to electromagnetic interference. The symptoms are unable to lock or unlock with remote. If this occurs the only way to operate the car is to use the code with the key sequence per the manual in the drivers door or to roll / tow the car away from the source of interference (assuming you don't know whats causing it).
Unlocking the car with the key in the drivers door does not disable the engine immobilizer.
For note, the car park by the bridge in Batemans Bay around the underwater power lines is notorious for doing this to Disco's. Some new house wireless power meter monitors can cause this also.