Thread: Advice on buying a D2 V8 manual?

Thanks for the advice and links guys. Still waiting for the owner to get back in touch with me. More time to research

Originally Posted by Freightdog

6K seems a bit cheap for a D2 up here, better get one of the LR shops to look it over.

This one's interstate. 4x4 prices up here are crazy so I've got my dad checking cars out for me.

Originally Posted by grover7488

Also when factoring price remember that a D2 runs PREMIUM unleaded [$1.20??!!! in vic we would be paying over $1.50 now]

I'm no stranger to high fuel prices. One of my previous weekenders ran straight av-gas. I was paying $1.10 for fuel when everyone else was still paying $0.78!!

My current car is supercharged so I always run on V-Power any way. It's over $1.50 here. But I'd rather pay more for decent fuel and get more kms per tank than putting cheap junk in.

With the LPG, as long as there's no real issues or damage that are caused, I guess it's more of an individual needs thing. Personally, if I get an LPG D2, I'll probably pull it off. I've had LPG before, not real keen on it, removed it from previous vehicles and been quite happy.

I've got a D2 V8 manual as well, one of the very first ones, build date 12/98.
I own it since late 2004. Bought secondhand in Germany with 50K on the clock.
No issues apart from headgasket, radiator, rad hoses (changed the 1st year of ownership), thermostat, front propshaft joints and centre bearing, and ACE modulator which killed itself 2 years ago.

It's a dream to drive. Mine has ACE but does not have air suspension (don't know why). Fuel consumption is around 15,5 minimum (I am not a light footed driver) but never went over 18 l/100 kms.

Please do check steering as some can develop wobble or change lane when accelerating or braking.
It IS a heavy truck and it shows on bushes, they have a particularly hard life, especially the ones in the radius arm to chassis area (mine were well shot)

Steering drag links and track rods are non serviceable, you can only renew one ball joint, so better buy the complete steering bar heavy duty kit with replaceable ball joints.

Steering knuckle joints are a weak spot, too, quite cheap but a pig of a job to renew. Thanls to this forum there is a really good guide on how to do it.

Please check cooling system fitness. When warm, , A/C or climate control shut down, SHOULd the auxiliary fan (electric) turn on when idling for more than 1-5 minutes, the thermostat is shot.
It took me 3 years to realize that. The thermostat in D2s and P38s works on temperature AND cooling circulation, and some early batches were er... say.. to hard and did not allow coolant circulation at idle.

Depending on the Model Year, if it's a coil sprung version it would be wise to fit good quality rear dampers and HD springs (part RKB000330 works like a treat, no lift, and much more sure footed).

To sum up, if your vehicle is in good shape, you will never regret it. Enjoy!

Best regards,

Robert

Originally Posted by RFollia

I've got a D2 V8 manual as well, one of the very first ones, build date 12/98.
I own it since late 2004. Bought secondhand in Germany with 50K on the clock.
No issues apart from headgasket, radiator, rad hoses (changed the 1st year of ownership), thermostat, front propshaft joints and centre bearing, and ACE modulator which killed itself 2 years ago.

It's a dream to drive. Mine has ACE but does not have air suspension (don't know why). Fuel consumption is around 15,5 minimum (I am not a light footed driver) but never went over 18 l/100 kms.

Please do check steering as some can develop wobble or change lane when accelerating or braking.
It IS a heavy truck and it shows on bushes, they have a particularly hard life, especially the ones in the radius arm to chassis area (mine were well shot)

Steering drag links and track rods are non serviceable, you can only renew one ball joint, so better buy the complete steering bar heavy duty kit with replaceable ball joints.

Steering knuckle joints are a weak spot, too, quite cheap but a pig of a job to renew. Thanls to this forum there is a really good guide on how to do it.

Please check cooling system fitness. When warm, , A/C or climate control shut down, SHOULd the auxiliary fan (electric) turn on when idling for more than 1-5 minutes, the thermostat is shot.
It took me 3 years to realize that. The thermostat in D2s and P38s works on temperature AND cooling circulation, and some early batches were er... say.. to hard and did not allow coolant circulation at idle.

Depending on the Model Year, if it's a coil sprung version it would be wise to fit good quality rear dampers and HD springs (part RKB000330 works like a treat, no lift, and much more sure footed).

To sum up, if your vehicle is in good shape, you will never regret it. Enjoy!

Best regards,

Robert

How many miles/ks on yours now Robert?

Cheers

Hi Scott,
mine is now 140K kms old, and 12 years.
What I noticed on 1st build discos is the really BAD rustproofing on chassis.
Body sections are way better rustproofed than on older generations, but D2s, especially pre-facelift 2002 MY models, are notoriously bad in the chassis area.

I fully rustproofed mine using Kaviter rust spray (kind of wax spanish made similar to Waxoyl, to stop surface rust from getting worse). So far, no issues in that point.

I had been quite unhappy in the handling area (steering) but once I changed the steering knuckle joints (THANKS again for the tip given in this superb forum) everything went back to normal.

I am very happy with it, even though every now and then I look all P38s that pass before my eyes.
Something will have to go, even I have to sacrifice my D3 V8, but my D2, so far, won't. I simply love the way it looks, the way it goes, and its simplicity compared to the current model range.
It's not a Series vehicle, but far simpler that many current models, even if it has had its issues (some more niggling than others)
Best regards from Spain and happy weekend to you all

Thanks for that info Rob. I have to agree about the look of the D2. It has so much to offer. Gives you something of the original LR product and brings it forwards and retains the classic looks. Great combo.

Mine has spent a fair bit of time off road and on the beach, but always religiously cleaned with high and low pressure water later from under the vehicle (togs and crawling...) including inside the box chassis and she has no signs of corrosion - 9 years old now, so it must have copped a good shot of the underbody proofing.
Cheers