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that'd be my bet.
although technically once the engine is assembled and the head is correctly torqued down the dowels dont do anything they're only there to locate the head during assembly.
Ive always had this nagging feeling that its something else thats causing the problem and the dowels are just a symptom. be it the wrong metalurgy in the bolts or an early version of the headgasket being just not quite right changing the dowels automatically forces a change of the bolts and the headgasket.
Thanks Dave. I did download the pdf that someone posted about the dowels and that said specifically only those serial numbers quoted. I'll check it when I get home and try and remember to post it here too.
However I was curious given there has been a number of dowel issues reported on the forum.
We have had posts of d2a's with plastic dowels,,
so its worth a concern Stuu,,
but like Dave says,,
unless the head comes loose the dowels are irrelevent
Service history is vital though. If it can't be verified, or if you have any doubts, walk away - there are plenty others
The above points are true but it flys in the face of those of us who save money as a cost effective exercise, and carry out the minor services ourselves rather than have oil and filters replaced by a dealer....just to have it noted in the owners handbook!!
My 1st D1 did over 250K's before I sold it to an Army mate up in Darwin around 2006. I did 80% of the services and blow me down - he was recently posted to Canberra and down he came with the old D1 still going strong!
I agree that Service history is vital but use your discretion with the condition of the vehicle and how it sounds/runs/drives rather than make a judgement via the dealer service record...........And lets be honest - how many potential buyers are going to be concerned about plastic dowels and how the head was torqued sequentially???
The local LR spares guy recommended to me that I change the head gasket on my D2a Td5 at 180,000 as a routine thing (ie get it before it goes and cracks the head). I've searched posts here but can't seem to verify if MY03's go less often than early Td5's. Can anyone shed some light?
I wouldn't normally just take mechanical advice from spare parts guys but this fella is a qualified diesel mechanic. Odo is up to 145k and I'm doing all the hoses before going up to Lake Eyre again next month.
Thanks Pedro.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift
Actually the main concern is the nut behind the wheel. :angel:
Interesting reading so far. I have just passed 200,000ks with 2 recent trips across the Nullabore. Had the old girl chipped on the way home which will probably stress the engine a bit more. I am heading up North this winter for a holiday in the Kimberly and need to get everything perfect before I go. I have not repaced head gaskets or double cardin and have only replaced one hub the Left rear. What major items should I be looking at before I head off. I do all my own servicing but will hand over to Mechanic for any major work.
Mike:)
Because it is chipped now your EGTs will be higher, so look at the exhaust manifold modification of cutting or grinding out the webbing between the ports, because of the higher EGT temps your exhaust manifold will warp more often and break exhaust studs, also install an EGT gauge and low coolent alarm to keep an eye on EGT and coolent temps.Quote:
Originally Posted by Disco mike
Baz.
I'd do a head gasket,,
and replace all UJ's in the front drive shaft.
So a defender post 2003 shouldn't have any probs and be good for 500+klms (I'm looking for one atm)