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All rims have to meet a safety standard, they are passed & approved in the condition they leave the factory in, alter the original state & the standards required are no longer met until proven that your alteration has not weakened the original structure.Quote:
Originally Posted by bee utey
My old man is a safety auditor & we've had long discussions regarding similar examples to this when I spent my time modifying Fords.
I guess it's kinda the same as bolting a 5 speed Celica gearbox to the back of a 253 or 308, heaps of people do it but it's technically supposed to be engineered to get it registered, the original structure has been altered. It was a 3 speed box from factory, now it's a 5 speed. Hot rod builders quite often will use a HZ, HQ Holden chassis & running gear then drop a 56 Chevrolet pickup shell over the top. Have a look at the rego, it's a Holden HZ, but it has to have an engineers cert to register it.
I would have thought that the strength would have come from the area around the 5 holes where the wheel nuts go. There should be very little to no force on the centre of the rim where I have cut out.
I'm going to fit the tyres tomorrow and try them out on Sunday. I will put the car through hell and see what happens to the rims.
Michael.
And this is the kind of real-world testing that will reveal the answers.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pacemaker
dont the d2 rims centre on a lip?Quote:
Originally Posted by Pacemaker
The alloys do, esp if you don't keep them clean the dust/hub rust sticks them in place.
My 18s have about 1 mm larger hole than hub. So there is no strength coming from the centre hub. Saying this the sunrasier style wheels have a much larger centre hole which is no where near the hub on the disco.
Anyway I did 850 kms this weekend with the commodore rims on. I towed an 1180 kg horse float with a 450 kg horse and about another 150 kg of water, feed and gear.total of approx 1800 kg. This was for about 300 kms. I did some medium to hard 4x4ing on Saturday at ormeau and gave the wheels a real hard time and today I drove out to janowen hills four wheel drive park. I met a few club members out there and had a great day. We conquered medium level tracks and a bit of mud stuff. There were a couple climbs we did that according to the map were hard but they weren't. I bounced over quite a few rocks and tried flexing the rims as much as I could.
I'm confident that I could leave these rims on full time and have no problems.
Time will tell.
Michael.
Pictures !!!
:rulez:
Interesting to hear about the Commodore wheels 'Pacemaker'. How did you open out the centre?
I'm getting a camper trailer built and want it to have wheels I can interchange with the Disco 2 if required. The builder is having trouble getting hubs/stub axles to suit. Any ideas?
If the trailer currently has LC wheels on it, the suspension will have to come off and longer stub axles fitted to meet the desired track - probably around 60mm longer(an engineer at an ag machinery workshop should be able to help here as there is some precision required to get it all straight)Quote:
Originally Posted by Buncha
You can get blank hubs, and have holes drilled at 5X120mm PCD to fit the 14mm studs for the D2 wheelnuts. You can get D2 wheelnuts 2nd hand (or late model Commodore - VE onwards - are also 14mm but I'm unsure on the length).
The hub centre is where it gets a bit tricky. You need to make sure that a D2 wheel fits over the hub centre. While you're having the hub machined, you may be able to have them take a whisker off the hub centre as I don't think it is load-bearing.
Please don't trust me on anything written here. this is just what I have worked out as I'm currently going through the same exercise.
Waz