Thread: catastrophic coolant 'leak' (more like a pouring out)

Here is a photo of my t-piece and the hose that originally would of had the bleed screw halfway along.

Please forgive me if this sounds silly, but is it possible the "T " piece is upside down? That could put the bleed screw on the bottom, could be leaking there Bob.

Originally Posted by imatt

Here is a photo of my t-piece and the hose that originally would of had the bleed screw halfway along.

Thanks - definately don't have that!!, but will look as bob suggested. It's in my NFI category.

Thanks so much for the replies...

Cheers

Lp

Originally Posted by bob10

Please forgive me if this sounds silly, but is it possible the "T " piece is upside down? That could put the bleed screw on the bottom, could be leaking there Bob.

Hi Bob, Not too sure, will have to see what I can see...

nothing is ever silly :-D...

Cheers Lp

Ok found it. The earlier V8 D2's had the bleed screw in the middle of the top hose, not the T piece.

See this post by tempestv8 TD5/V8 and D3 bleed screws

Originally Posted by Psimpson7

Ok found it. The earlier V8 D2's had the bleed screw in the middle of the top hose, not the T piece.

See this post by tempestv8 TD5/V8 and D3 bleed screws

Thx ... but what is defined as an earlier d2? Mine's a 2000 year...

thx Lp

Your disco is an early model mine is a 99/00 and it had the bleed screw in the hose, it was the first fault I had, the plastic screw gave up and caused coolant to leak everywhere while I was driving. You might even have split the radiator, it happened in a work vehicle of mine. You need to look at the coolant splash marks and try and find the source, the engine fan will have spread a lot of it around but look for a central start point. Sort this fault quickly otherwise it might cost you an engine.
Cheers Matt

I just had heaps of probs with hoses and they seem to fail one after the other.
On mine the plastic screw for the air bleed split in half and leaked.
The tee piece without the screw was the early design as others have said and was replaced with the screw in the tee type and the horizontal hose doesnt have the bleed screw now. I went to buy just the screw and had to buy the three hoses as an assembly as a new part.
The hose from the pump to the thermostat in the early style had rubber joins, these joins a very prone to failing, the new design has a plastic junction instead.
The thermostat body will also perish over time and the necks become brittle allowing the flared part to break off and cause the hose to leak at the connection.
The housing under the throttle body that is leaking can be disconnected and the two hoses can be joined to bypass it, there will be a rubber hose attached to the top of the motor and a plastic tube running back to overflow bottle, push the plastic tube into the rubber hose and secure with one of the clamps.
If doing short trips watch the temp gauge and pull over as soon as the temp starts to climb. Wait for it to cool down and top it up again, repeat as necessary.
Parts from OS are good value and can land at your door in about a week, if you can nurse it that long you could replace all of your hoses and the thermostat for the cost of just the top hose bought here.
I would also look at getting a new viscous hub and radiator or at least have your radiator cleaned out, to remove the rad you need to take off the fan, the hub and all the hoses, so doing them all at once is a good idea.

James