Thread: D2 Steps/Sliders/Tanks

Set out to build a set of side steps so the kids could get in/out easier, plus added benefit of protection, also adding air storage after seeing some do it as well. Wanted to avoid, mounting to chassis, prevents anything hanging lower as well as still allowing for sill tanks for fuel. Using mostly original holes, all fasteners recessed. Sits no lower than std plastic mouldings, completely protects original sills (steel sits under sill back to inner lip) plus lower door edges.

Materials are 150 x 50 x 3 steel (approx 1900ea), 3mm steel plate cut to 90mm wide, plus 500 of 3/4 solid round bar.

Finished product, zero deflection with 200kg down weight, 3mm up deflection when jacking on outer 1/3rd.




Start by removing the original plastic trim, leave the bolt at the front under the edge of the guard. The plastic will be cut to fill in the gap between the guard and step later. The bolt will keep it in place.



Then cut the rear edge of the sill where there is a vertical piece sticking down across the rear edge. Cut horizontally just above the hole you can see on the left & vertically in the corner below the hole under the sill.



Fold this piece back to flatten out the base of the sill. I riveted the outer hole just because.



Place the steel for the sill in place and line up one end with edge of flare, I cut them on a slight angle matching the down angle of the flare (approx 6deg). Both ends are the same angle, they can also be cut shorter (to sill length) but it testing it looked dicky so I made them full size.



The original mounting holes for the plastic trim are used, drill to 13/32 to suit 8mm nut inserts. Fit inserts and also use button head cap screws for fastening the finished plate.



The 3/4"solid bar was drilled to 9mm and counter bored to 13mm to take 8mm socket head cap screws, Then the sill boxes were end capped and drilled to 3/4"to take the solid bar, which was plug welded in place to seal up the whole unit. The heads of the screws are fully recessed below the surface. Not that I am providing certifivation but the welder is pressure vessel certified and the "tank" was pressure tested to 150bar with zero distortion or leak. So it should survive an ARB compressor, plus I can fillit from the dive compressor before going away and have a large reserve. FWIW 1atm volume is about 12lt.

The vertical plates were cut and shaped to length, the rear one could be square but I'm particualr and made it look original. NOTE: at this point I pre drilled the vertical plates. In hindsight despite the phenominal welding (not mine) they actually shrunk down and had to be filed out. Instead I would recommend making a template of the holes as I did, then as pictured below, tack into place, remove and stitch weld only on the outside as there isn't sufficient radius to clear an inner weld, then using template mark holes from inside and drill. Should then be in correct place. I have the timber templates if anyone wants to copy.



Once it's all welded fasten and hang off the bolts on the vertical plates and then jack up against the sill, and drill into the lower section. These are the only 4 non std holes. There are 4 original holes but lining up these and the 11 others was too hard basket. Remove and drill out and fit the nut inserts, place the bolts into the nut inserts and tap to align them vertically. Replacing then becomes a juggling act to line everything up in two planes but patience getes there.

They sit just a little further than the flare, I'm probably going to widen with some round elbows and straight bar out to the full width of the flares.

150x50 box should roll easily enough to match the curvature of the D2 sills.
Toombie even had the curve radius mentioned in one of his posts.
Would tidy them up enormously!

S