Thanks Basil, i am going to bite the bullet and pull it apart tomorrow, my father is very capable and is going to give a hand.
Considering you are planning a big trip, I would be bite the bullet and just do the fix.
It isnt a hard job, and you should be able to do it yourself. Especially since no special tools are required.
If you have air conditioning, then you will need to drop the belt & undo the compressor bolts to move it out the way, but you only need a couple of inches of movement to get to the last bolt at the front.
The only other hurdle you may strike is the bolt that holds the heat-sheild on. It is around the back of the turbo, and you wont be able to see it, so it all as to be done by touch. On some cars, people have found that this one is seized tight. Mine was ok, and just came out with no real problems.
Thanks Basil, i am going to bite the bullet and pull it apart tomorrow, my father is very capable and is going to give a hand.
_________________________
1996 D1 V8 - gone
2002 D2 Td5 ES- gone but still running elsewhere
2013 D4 SDV6 HSE - gone
2023 Defender 110SE D300
A bit of an update, i found that the top stud on the end cylinder was also broken, all other nuts were still holding fast. Because there was good access once the heat shield is off for both top and bottom studs on the end cylinder against firewall i decided to repair them without pulling the exhaust manifold off. I was able to remove the top stud relatively easily with an easy out and replace with new stud the bottom one ended up being retapped with larger stud. I tensioned them up and all is sealing well.
I think i will wait till returning from our trip to replace the rest of the studs as i am under the pump at the moment and feel confident in what has been done.
Regards
[QUOTE=jwb;1498409]Any issue with using bolts instead of studs and nuts? I've heard some performance engines have bolts as a preference.
studs are an engineers choice,bolts are an accountants choice.
especialy when going into alloy. cheers ben
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Far better to screw a steel stud into an alloy metal and have it seat there, not moved. Then add a mild steel nut to the other end. View the stud and nut as sacrificial, much better to have to replace either of them because of wear than to have to helicoil the head.
Regards, Will
Stornoway Grey '09 D3 TDV6 SE, 2015 TERRITORY Engine at 348k
LLAMS, FYRLYTS, OL D4 Bar
Safari Snorkel, D4 hitch, ARB CKMA12
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