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Thread: Tail gate stuck closed (not a faulty latch).

  1. #1
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    Tail gate stuck closed (not a faulty latch).

    After a strong gust of wind blew my tailgate very hard full open against the hinges it has required a bit of a slam to shut it.

    The striker was now aligned with the bottom of the door latch i.e the door would be pushed slightly down by the striker when the latch closed on it.

    Opening it has never been a problem since fitting a new lmechanism recently.

    Today i thought I might realign the striker on the pillar to rectify the misalignment of the door latch.

    moved it up a little, secured it, closed the tailgate and now it is stuck closed.

    Something in my masterful realignment has cocked things up royally.

    101 key fob lock unlocks and no way will the latch engage and open the door.

    Is there any way of opening the tailgate when the latch will not function.

    (i have had the intermittent latch failure problem and this is not it)


  2. #2
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    Have you tried using the interior handle while someone else tries to lift the door from the outside? Apart from that, you may be able to remove the inner door trim and get to the lock mechanism to work the lever that the cable connects to.

    If that doesn't work I've no idea how to get the door open as all the bolts etc are inside.

    Let us know how you go.
    Regards, Will

    Stornoway Grey '09 D3 TDV6 SE, 2015 TERRITORY Engine at 348k
    LLAMS, FYRLYTS, OL D4 Bar
    Safari Snorkel, D4 hitch, ARB CKMA12

  3. #3
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    Yair, that means dissassembling the draw system from inside the cargo bay.
    I have already pulled the cargo barrier out and tried the internal handle while an assistant tries to lever the door up and down- no joy there.

    Might saw off the hinges if all else fails. They are a bit bent anyways due the wind event.

  4. #4
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    Is there any way that you can lever the seal away from the door near where the striker is, and use some type of reciprocating saw or similar to cut through the striker whilst the door is in place?

    Edit: To clarify, that's cutting through the door striker that the latch engages, NOT the hinges.
    Regards, Will

    Stornoway Grey '09 D3 TDV6 SE, 2015 TERRITORY Engine at 348k
    LLAMS, FYRLYTS, OL D4 Bar
    Safari Snorkel, D4 hitch, ARB CKMA12

  5. #5
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    thats a thought, thanks

    tomorrow will see

    cheers

  6. #6
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    Depends how much room you have behind the drawers. You need to get the trim off the door and a small screw driver into the mech to push the latch.
    Dont envy you if you have a big drawer system.

    I ended up designing my drawers so I could remove the top deck panels in situ to get access for just such an event.
    Have you tried pushing it closed further and operating the latch?

    IMO I wouldnt cut the hinges as you will still be well attached at the latch and probably do more damage. But if you have no options left.....I would be cutting through the trim panel before I went into body work.

    all the best with it.

    cheers

  7. #7
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    I know it isnt going to assist now but is it possible to replace the d2 lock with a key operated d1 unit?

  8. #8
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    While sitting and staring at the door for awhile it became clear the problem is I think I moved the striker more forward as well as up and thus the door is closed with almost no free play to push it further closed as is normal.
    Any push on the closed door has no movement. Thus thus latch has too much friction to open. That's my theory on what I,ve done.

    Will try and remove trim this morning and access the latch internally as suggested

    Thanks chaps.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by alpick View Post
    While sitting and staring at the door for awhile it became clear the problem is I think I moved the striker more forward as well as up and thus the door is closed with almost no free play to push it further closed as is normal.
    Any push on the closed door has no movement. Thus thus latch has too much friction to open. That's my theory on what I,ve done.

    Will try and remove trim this morning and access the latch internally as suggested

    Thanks chaps.
    Find a flat piece of 3mm steel, wedge it under the door, lift up over a block of wood and push against the door while operating the release.

  10. #10
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    Strangy hit the nail on the head thank you very much.

    I pried what I could of the trim away from the door from inside the cargo area. Luckily the draw system is low enough to allow enough trim to come away to allow access to the latch lever that is connected to rear door handle.

    Pushing down on that lever gives a little more purchase on the latch than using the rear door handle.

    So with the latch lever held down, a good shove on the door from the inside saw it open.

    Aligned the striker properly and all is well.

    For a moment it was not looking promising!

    Now for the slipping intercooler hose!

    Cheers all.
    Last edited by alpick; 17th June 2011 at 10:11 AM. Reason: Spellcheck did not recognize stringy! See!

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