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Franz, I'd lube all the pivot points you can find first, before you buy another assembly. I reckon that my actuator was lazy before I lubed the connections, and it seems a lot better.
If that doesn't work, then http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/D2-Land-R...item43a72f83c4
AND the lube to use is called INOX Aussie made non silcon based. will not go sticky, dry up, gum up or wash off with water.
The locksmith who fixed my "sticky wafer" problem gave me a can as part of the deal.
super stuff for providing sliperiness in locks.
Girlfriends Civic had a door lock problem the local mech could not solve, a quick spray with inox and all returned to as new ops.
I had all sorts of intermittent probs with my tailgate latch both lock/unlock and opening.
pulled it all apart / cleaned lubed etc and back in, worked ok for a while then went screwy again.
after lotsa research just bought a new one $110 i think and all is sweet.
i lube it now with inox every 6 months or so ( and all other locks).
cheers
Alpick
Did anyone else find it impossible to remove the 3 torx head bolts that hold the rear door lock mech? I've tried an impact driver and all that did was shear my torx bit! Don't know why some of these things are done up so tight or why they don't use allen key bolt heads...
Had no problems getting mine out with a 1/4" ratchet and torx bit socket.Quote:
Originally Posted by feraldisco
hmm...can't budge mine with a 1/2" ratchet, with the first thing to give way being the torx bit!Quote:
Originally Posted by Franz
We've had trouble along these lines. Worn latches cock over just a little bit and jam, especially if there's dust about/in the latch itself, and the covering on the rotating element has worn out.
Replacing the whole latch is the permanent solution, and grief ceases!
Pete