I forgot to mention that Les Richmond Auto does a 4" lift kit for the D2.
Baz.
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I forgot to mention that Les Richmond Auto does a 4" lift kit for the D2.
Baz.
Just remember 2" is easy... Higher requires more effort and has more complexity.
And the old wives tale... Lift allows bigger tyres without rubbing is absolute bull dust...
All it does is alter the static location of the suspension at rest. Heavier coils reduce flex and can prevent touching but its not worth doing!
One day I'll write something up if I can find the energy :-D
Had a look at the Richmond camber plates annd they do look like the way to go, especially for the price, plus they're apprved with egd certs. While I'd like to go to new arms I can't justify it when compared to the plates for price. It would allow me to do the rear arms instead. My question though is how do they work? They bolt onto some existing holes and the arm mounts through holes which have been repositioned, what do you do with the existing plates? They have to remain but do you just elongate the original holes?Quote:
Originally Posted by that_kid
I have actually lowered mine from 4" back to 2", mainly because I was sick of replacing front shocks and radius arm bushes.
My first trip with the new springs and shocks towing the camper was a supprise actually, I went to overtake someone in a tight corner and nearly run off the road, I don't have any feel in the front end anymore, basically the car doesn't handle as well in the corners as it did with the 4" lift, the wandering has gone though, especially with the camper on, which was at times pretty bad.
Overall though it's an improvement, going to work on the front end now, I'm pretty sure just adjusting tyre pressures should fix it.
Baz.
Which Rad Arm bushed were wearing, chassis or diff end? Wandering will improve due to the reduced castor, do you have ACE or std anti roll bars? Mines fantastic in corners with +80mm & ACE.
Have you guys with lift kits had any dramas with drive shaft vibrations/destroying uni joints??
I ran the 2" for about 18months without an issue. However i did have the rear shaft re-made with heavier walled tube and a uni when the rear locker etc went in.Quote:
Originally Posted by newlandyowner
I dont have any dramas with vibration either although its hard to tell as my setup has alot of heim and currie joints in it.
With the King flexi coils and fox shocks and no sway bars its amazing how well mine handles with around 4.5" of lift. It has less body roll then it did with the 2" setup and still flexes well.
The castor plates use the original dif mounts to mount the plates, and then create a new position for the arms to mount too. They should be a simple bolt in solution and your right for the price hard to beat. there just isnt enough good arm choices out there at the moment although i have heard whispers that superior are working on something for them:twisted:
No ACEQuote:
Originally Posted by clubagreenie
The single bush at the chassis end was the most frequent and the lower front shock mount bush, this fails because of the diff angle, castor would fix this though.
Hey guys, Ive recently purchased a D2 and installed the full Les Richmond 4'' lift kit for my D2, and i was suprised at how much the kit comes with, Castor correction, front X member drop mod, extended brake lines for the back, Watts link mod and much more stuff than you can poke a stick at, I was completly happy with how easy it was to install myself (took me 2 complete days by myself). Hope all goes well with what ever you decide to do.:)Quote:
Originally Posted by Redback
I think you will find that 30mm is not where near enough to fit 12' travel Fox's.Quote:
Originally Posted by that_kid
they have a similar closed lenght to billies which are like 19' closed.
Standard rover shocks are around 14' closed.
So really they need to be lifted 5' (125mm) to prevent the shocks from going metal to metal.