D2 Heart transplant

**JBM770** · 5th July 2011, 08:42 PM

3750 exchange

**Pedro_The_Swift** · 6th July 2011, 05:59 PM

TRS do them for less,, around 2900,,

dont ask me how I know,,,

**JBM770** · 6th July 2011, 09:32 PM

TRS quoted me 3500 exchange, I thought for an extra 250 it was better to buy locally

**Pedro_The_Swift** · 7th July 2011, 07:57 AM

interesting,,

fair enough but still interesting.

**JBM770** · 7th July 2011, 08:06 AM

Maybe the difference is the freight to newcastle.

**Pedro_The_Swift** · 7th July 2011, 08:08 AM

they quoted $80 to toowoomba!

**banarcus** · 7th July 2011, 03:04 PM

I'm going to have to bail on my offer of assistance JBM770. I'll be out of town this weekend but am happy to help out if you need a hand next week or after. Sorry.

**mumbo** · 7th July 2011, 04:04 PM

Originally Posted by JBM770

Theres an inspection hole to undo 4 bolts that hold the torque convertor to the flex plate. The RAVE doesnt say remove the torque convertor so I wasnt going to.

I did end up removing the rad, as you suggested, I didnt want to ding it.

James

I have done a complete rebuild on the 4.0 litre. Holes on case do not help and rubber bungs cannot be refitted ( at least by me!!) Removing case bolts involves some ugly contortions. Easier with the heads off!!

**Pierre** · 7th July 2011, 08:27 PM

I got the flex plate bolts out by accessing through the crank angle sensor hole, AFAIR. Not a big deal. Push the converter back as far as it will go, and after the engine is out, prevent it from moving forward with a short steel strap (25x3 by 150 long), drilled at one end, and bolted to the face of the bellhousing.

I think we offed the fan, dropped the engine mounts with the radiator out, and the top bell housing bolts were then easy to get at. A good tip is to remove the coil packs.

And again a vote for TRS for long engine supply.

HTH

Pete

**mumbo** · 7th July 2011, 08:52 PM

Originally Posted by Pierre

I got the flex plate bolts out by accessing through the crank angle sensor hole, AFAIR. Not a big deal. Push the converter back as far as it will go, and after the engine is out, prevent it from moving forward with a short steel strap (25x3 by 150 long), drilled at one end, and bolted to the face of the bellhousing.

I think we offed the fan, dropped the engine mounts with the radiator out, and the top bell housing bolts were then easy to get at. A good tip is to remove the coil packs.

And again a vote for TRS for long engine supply.

HTH

Pete

Totally agree....forgot the details. One more tip ....the fan needs a big shock to the nut to remove it. By the way......if the 4 litre overheated did you have the radiator cleaned out properly. it would need "rodding" at least.

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