Have I fried my headlight switch?

**bell1975** · 13th August 2011, 12:12 AM

Well, it has not been a happy evening in the shed:
1. it's approx 3 degrees in there, and
2. while installing a set of spotlights I may have fried my headlight switch.

I'm going to have to track down an auto electrician on Saturday morning if I can't get any conclusive ideas from you guys.

I have the Traxide headlight wiring upgrade - all fitted months ago and very worthwhile. Tonight I was adding the driving light relay side of the kit as supplied by Tim.

The relay was almost installed when a wire made contact with the positive battery terminal and made a few sparks. Here's the thing though - when this wire (one end was attached to point "B" on the driving light relay) hit the terminal the headlights flickered and lit up for a bit before I could remove the wire. There was a bit of a burning smell from the battery area following this but I can't see any burnt wiring.

After that I tried the lights - I have parkers but no main beam or high beam. Bugger. I need to drive to Brisbane before dawn on Monday....and return Tuesday night. Functioning headlights were part of the plan.

All the fuses in the engine bay and under the dash are fine. Also the fuses on the relays (ie, the Traxide upgrade ones) are fine too.

I swapped the bulbs to 2 known good ones in case they were the issue but still no go (and what fun it is to change bulbs in that generous space LR provided behind the headlights..).

I don't seem to be getting any current at the bulb sockets on the multimeter.

So, I'll thrown this out there before I retire for the night - what else could I check before I order a new headlight switch?

Is it possible I've damaged/blown a fusible link (they all look fine) or a relay?

Many thanks for your ideas and thoughts people.

**LOVEMYRANGIE** · 13th August 2011, 12:41 AM

Get hold of a Nanocom if you dont have one and check the headlight output signal generated by the body computer.
If you get an output signal then it maybe a burnt relay.

**bell1975** · 13th August 2011, 06:58 AM

Originally Posted by LOVEMYRANGIE

Get hold of a Nanocom if you dont have one and check the headlight output signal generated by the body computer.
If you get an output signal then it maybe a burnt relay.

Ok. Thanks for your suggestion.

My Evo 2 is almost read for delivery...and not a moment too soon (I am just finalising the replacement of the internal buzzer in the unit with a bright LED to give me a visual warning of alarms etc as my hearing loss means the high frequency beeping won't be heard. Colin from BBS has been excellent to work with to try and come up with a solution for me. Well done that man.)

**Pedro_The_Swift** · 13th August 2011, 07:09 AM

you may find its easier to remove the headlamp, (and then wonder why no-one pinches them)

**bell1975** · 13th August 2011, 07:41 AM

Yes, that's about right too. All I could see while trying to prise off the connector/socket was the ridiculous amount of flex in the bulb holder assembly. A couple of screwdrivers sorted it as I could gain more leverage as my fingers can hardly get into the gap to grip the connector.

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

you may find its easier to remove the headlamp, (and then wonder why no-one pinches them)

I am going to wander casually down to the shed in a minute, calm and without fuss (so as not to warn the electrical gremlins lurking within the vehicle that I am still mighty pi$#ed off at the outcome of last night).

I'll reconnect the battery and check whether they have magically repaired themselves overnight....trying to be an optimist here to save me throwing things around the shed later on.

I have looked at RAVE - there are 2 or 3 relays that appear to have functions that probably include the lighting circuit.

Am I right in thinking that the Engine Bay Fuse Box Relays R7 AUXILIARY CIRCUITS, and R9 MAIN RELAY are two most likely culprits?

In the Interior Fuse box I see no relays that match lighting circuits - apart from R1 and R2 - INDICATORS. But there are a couple of fuses there that I have not checked - F26 AUXILIARY RELAY, and F23 BCU, STARTER RELAY.

I googled "how to test a relay" last night. I'll familiarise myself with how to do that shortly too.

Cheers for your help.

**LOVEMYRANGIE** · 13th August 2011, 09:19 AM

Open the panel under the steering column and you will find more relays

**bell1975** · 13th August 2011, 09:24 AM

Relays under the dash seem to be these 4:
R1 LH indicators
R2 RH indicators
R3 Rear window lift
R4 Ignition

Could the Indicator ones have been compromised and be causing my problems?

**LOVEMYRANGIE** · 13th August 2011, 09:36 AM

Originally Posted by bell1975

Relays under the dash seem to be these 4:
R1 LH indicators
R2 RH indicators
R3 Rear window lift
R4 Ignition

Could the Indicator ones have been compromised and be causing my problems?

I doubt it. I've not had any issues with my D2a along these lines so never had the need to work out where everything is. I would assume that it's not directly controlled via the BCU but wouldn't surprise me.
I'll plug my nano in and switch lights on thru it and see if I can find it. At work ATM so give me until later this arvo.

**biggin** · 13th August 2011, 09:47 AM

You wouldn't have fried the switch unless the switch was turned on at the time.
I would be looking to a fuse, or a burnt wire for starters.

**bell1975** · 13th August 2011, 10:18 AM

Originally Posted by LOVEMYRANGIE

I doubt it. I've not had any issues with my D2a along these lines so never had the need to work out where everything is. I would assume that it's not directly controlled via the BCU but wouldn't surprise me.
I'll plug my nano in and switch lights on thru it and see if I can find it. At work ATM so give me until later this arvo.

Thanks for doing that - I'll post back if I have any success later today to save you the trouble.

Originally Posted by biggin

You wouldn't have fried the switch unless the switch was turned on at the time.
I would be looking to a fuse, or a burnt wire for starters.

Ok. The headlight switch was definitely off at the time the wire contacted the battery terminal. I'm heading back down to the shed now to have a better look under the bonnet - working by the light of a trouble lamp last night was hardly ideal. I think I now know how to check relays so I'll test the likely culprits there too.

Thanks for your ideas.

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