ABS Modulator.
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ABS Modulator.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tombie
Both engines are good but for me give me my smooth quite V8 4L engine over a rough slow and expensive to maintain TD5 any day... :D
I often hear on here about how expensive it is to run a V8 but fuel costs are the cheapest part of owning any vehicle.
Seriously if one can't afford the few extra dollars it costs in fuel each week then how can one afford the big TD5 repair bills when they keep popping up on a regular basis as they get older? :angel:
cheers,
Terry
I wish.... My V8 fuel bill was $600 per week - No I'm not exaggerating :(Quote:
Originally Posted by TerryO
My TD5 fuel bill for the same distance was $240 per week...
And a tuned TD5 is smooth, albeit a little noisy (although a hi-output Turbo Diesel sounds great roaring out a free flowing system.... With more oomph than the V8 :p
Watch out for the fuel pump. I've been told it's only got a lifespan of 100,000 km.
Also look out for dreaded three amigoes. I am surprised you haven't had any problems with that yet.
Yep, did my fuel pump 2 weeks ago at 156,000km and $695.00! I'm keeping an eye on the water pump as the coolant level is dropping regularly.
I'm planning to do fan belt and tensioner and pulleys at 160,000km and I'll start keeping an eye on the harmonic balancer inner bearing.
MrsTd5 reckons she had trouble with one of the back door locks the other day so there's trouble brewing I think :mad:
How long do transmissions last if regularly serviced?
Ditto the OIL PUMP BOLT, been there done that failure.
The Auto is a tough bit of kit, regular oil change per interval and filter change every other will see, no problems, but to add to you list check the high pressure auto cooler hose from the top of the auto box to the left side of the cooler (right side looking from the front) they tend to sometimes blow apart and stop you in your tracks as they empty the box of oil before you notice , but you will see some oil around the crimp on the hose to pipe, near the main radiator hose hopefully if it's on it's way:D or the crimp will be loose.
I think some problems with TD5's start because of them being chipped up, the other problems can be avoided as you have already begun to do.
BIG O
03 D2 TD5 AUTO
99 D2 TD5 AUTO ACE
94 D1 TDI 3 DOOR (GONE)
Based on my similar experience of acquiring a 2003 D2a TD5 auto, also with 165000km....
Things not so far mentioned that I've found and fixed due to help from this and other forums. In no particular order...
- Get the turbo heatshield off and look at the small hose / blanking cap coming off the oil cooler. If its original, replace it before it lets go, they harden, split and you lose coolant, which can result in a warped head or worse. Take any drop in coolant level very seriously. Fit an alarm / engine saver.
- Check the power steering pipe where it runs down past the left hand side of the sump - they tend to rub, wearing through the pipe.
- check your brake backplate / stone guards at the rear - both of mine were broken around the fixing points - its OK to just remove them, they hold in more dust and stones than they keep out (in my humble opinion)
- check the "ducks bill" thingy under the airbox - probably choked with grass and dust. Accessible from the front left wheelarch. While you're there, check your air filter is seated properly, they can let dust past the filter otherwise. the evidence will be dust on the mesh in front of the MAF unit.
- camshaft oil seal at front of head leaking - easy fix
- battery tray, check for corrosive deposits; and make sure your battery is 100%, causes problems when it starts to degenerate, 3 years is a decent lifespan, depends on climate and other factors though.
- 3 amigos; warning lights related to ABS system - many possible causes, but don't panic - if they appear rule out the simple causes first - mine appeared when braking in the wet - was cured by new front discs and pads (old ones very low and cracked - high frequency vibration set the ABS sensors into warning mode (I think).
- tail door lock - if it isn't stuck yet, it will happen unless you service it: get it out, clean and lube it - not difficult, and don't need to dismantle the lock assy, just get all the old hard grease and dust out then lube it. A can of WD40 is your friend. A clear warning sign is intermittent operation from central locking - so listen to MrsTD5 - if it gets stuck closed, then you'll have a bigger problem. Rear doors, as opposed to tail door - also an issue, look it up, I haven't had this yet so can't add anything.
- check your ignition key operation - if its getting sloppy or sticky get the barrel replaced now - its a cheap while-you-wait job at any decent auto locksmith - do not wait for it to fall apart internally, as they are known to do, always far from home or help. (this repair doesn't need new keys, which is good becasue they are hellish expensive)
Due respect to robbotd5, but all the above issues and more were present on my 2003 XS TD5 auto despite a full LR service history including a major service at 160k, so don't take anything for granted.
So do be paranoid - for a while at least - do NOT trust that service items have been done. If you're the DIY type [which you probably are, else why would you be on this forum] then get the wheels off, get under it with a lamp, remove the undertrays and double-check everything to the best of your ability - especially your cables, pipes and hoses - on mine this process revealed loads of potential problems with insecure cables, hoses, rubbing points and insecure clamps etc. Also change all the filters and fluids that you feel capable of doing yourself.
Practice changing wheels at home - can reveal issues with tools, jack or locking wheel nuts - far better to discover these on your driveway than at the roadside.
At this point, take it to your friendly local tyre shop, get it up on the ramp and have them inspect it and show you what's what from front to back [and grease your propshafts]. Then find a good independent specialist to fix anything beyond your ability and to maintain it properly.
Make friends of them (beer helps) and the service will be all the better.
Meanwhile keep on doing lots and lots of forum searches; its saved me loads of money and worries. Not to alarm you, but there are tons of other known issues I haven't had (yet) like fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, injectors, MAF and so on - but fore-warned is definitely fore-armed. Identify the real experts on each forum (it becomes apparent very quickly who they are) and read their posts and especially replies avidly.
A great general starting point is www.discovery2.co.uk
Once its sorted, and you feel you can trust it properly, its a fantastic car.
Pete
Come on guys the TD5 is top shelf.
My 2003 TD5 Auto has clocked just over 290,000kms. I have checked the oil pump bolt and it was tight as. Replaced the fuel pump at 240,000 when I dropped the tank to fix the chafed fuel lines. ABS Modulator replaced for free by the dealer at 140,000kms as it had been dealer serviced for the warranty period plus a bit and they picked it up at 70,000kms as having a sticky shuttle valve.
Yeah a few fuel regulators and a leak or 2 but what a top vehicle. Its being treated to an ARB deluxe winch bar, snorkel, TigerzII 12000lb winch, Hella lights and a Detroit locker in the next few weeks as it has been a loyal servant for 8 years and deserves to have some fun. It has taken me to the Vic high country numerous times, the Gulf of Carpentaria 3 times and many trips into Central QLD. Mostly paid for by work as I do a bit of remote support for Radio comms.
Currently its running on Farmer Graemes front springs, Bilsteins and rear Firestone airbags but will soon have George Sadliks front coils and some Kings HD rear springs to help with the extra weight. Thanks guys for the springs a few years back.
I love my Disco and would find it hard to part with it as there would always be comparisons. I honestly believe that maintenance and a sympathetic ear help to identify most problems before they turn into catastrophic failures (Oil pump bolt excluded).
Regards Gordo
I'm reading this thread with a smile on my face. I wouldn't swap my D2 for anything.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tombie
So your the reason we have global warming and to think everyone thinks its because of the amount of coal that is burnt. ;)
To be frank thats one hell of a lot of fuel you use each week Tombie.
Using a very basic and possibly wrong way of calculating it I came up with these numbers;
Petrol $600 divided by $1.35 per litre works out at about 440 litres.
Diesel $240 divided by $1.20 per litre works out at roughly 200 litres for the same mileage going on what the average cost of fuel is and more to the point the average gap I have sen between diesel and petrol of about 15 cents per litre.
Round here right now diesel and a reasonable octane petrol are in fact very similar in cost.
All I can say is you must have had one very very unhealthy V8 if it was using over double the fuel of what a diesel is on the same roads and using similar vehicles.
On a good week I get about 550 to 570 ks per tank and on a bad week with lots of start stop driving down around 490 to 510 ks.
Right now I need a new MAF and I'm getting roughly 450 ks.
I have seen 600 ks a couple of times but that was all highway driving and when the D2a was in a good fresh state of tune with new plugs and air filter etc.
I should mention that I am running taller tyres so in fact the mileage is about 6% better then what is shown on the speedo.
cheers,
Terry