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Thread: Temp or Temp Gauge Issues

  1. #1
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    Temp or Temp Gauge Issues

    I have a 2000 TD5 Disco, about a month ago I had the top hose and radiator, thermostat replaced, flushed etc.

    Have taken her to Cairns and back, but now that I am back amongst familiar land marks have found that the car takes about 9 - 10km's before the car is up to running temp (1/2 Gauge). This is probably 5 km's further then it used to take when the ambient temp was about 5 degrees cooler.

    But the biggest concern that I now have, is that when idling (Say waiting for Drive through) after about 5 minutes the temperature gauge drops, after I start driving again it goes back to showing running temp very quickly.

    The car hasn't been using any water, or oil and there doesn't seem to be a mixing of the two.

    Any ideas or theories would be appreciated.

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    Your thermostat is not closing fully.
    Regards Philip A

  3. #3
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    or is not closing at all i.e is fully open all the time.

  4. #4
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    I've tested a few all with the same results within a few degrees. The needle starts to move at 55, reaches horizontal at 75 and is still there at 98. The light comes on at somewhere between 101 and 105 and needle at top around 102+.

  5. #5
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    Can you describe the procedure you use to test the thermostat operation?

    Thanks.

  6. #6
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    Anything in a "normal" range (not engine killing) done with Scangauge connected to OBD2 and thermocouple into a port in a stainless joiner I made up to replace the silly plastic plug/screw thingy in the top hose. Anything above the kill range was done with the thermo sensor suspended in a water bath with the same sensor setup.

  7. #7
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    On the diagnostic tool live data the temperature on our 1999 Discovery II V8 sits at 92°C on the highway. However, when the engine is idling it goes up to 105°C after 5-10 min, even on a 10°C day! The temperature gauge doesn't move higher than half way.

    We haven't replaced the thermostat yet, nor the radiator and water pump, as we have starting problems that need diagnosing and fixing first.

    Is it better to replace the radiator with a standard item or an aftermarket radiator e.g. Alisport?

    The link below may be of interest:

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...ant-pipes.html

    LRT

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    My next rad will be a heavier alloy core and alloy tanks. Blocks threaded for the screws that go into the top (that aren't drilled through. Welded so it doesn't leak through seals/crimps.

  9. #9
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    Question Replacement radiators

    Are they available in Australia?
    If so, where do you recommend you can buy them?

    LRT

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    You need to source a suitably sized core (PWR etc) and then buy tanks, or make them and weld them yourself and have welded to the core. Plus all the brackets etc. At least it will avoid the holes in the top from the shroud screws.

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