Good idea! I'll give it a go.
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Good idea! I'll give it a go.
Paul, this happened to me the first time I serviced our '04 TD5. When I undid the bolt nearest the engine block it came out complete with the thread. I simply got a longer, plain bolt that passed far enough down the tapped hole to catch on the remaining thread that the original bolt never reached. That was in '07 and a gentle hand on the ratchet has avoided further trouble. Dave
10nm or 7 lb/ft is all you need
RTFM
x2 Daisy Driver, i had exactly the same experience. Also I always put a little blue locktight to help resist vibration loosening the bolt.
best
Lewis
The first one on mine stripped using a calibrated torque wrench set to 10nm BEFORE it hit 10nm. The second stripped on the first application of the torque wrench after finger tightening.
And yes, I know about the bolt and nut solution, for that is what is holding the lid on now. It's just an unnecessary fiddle to have to deal with the bottom nuts.
Paul
HI ALL I DID A OIL AND FILTER CHANGE A COUPLE OF MONTHS BACK AND WHEN I TRIED TO UNDO THE ROTOR BOLTS ONLY ONE UNDID THE OTHER ONE JUST KEPT TURNING WONDNT UNDO:mad:ANY IDEAS ON TO REMOVE THIS BOLT?THANKS
youve stripped the thread in the housing
to remove
using a pair of 90 degree offset flat head screwdrivers pry the cove. r upwards at the same time as you undo the offending bolt. Try to lever as close to the bolt hole as you can.
I just put helicoils in mine. I had to use a long 1/4" drill to get the clearance along with removing the turbo heat shield. The air con pipes were still awkward.
Worked a treat. Much nicer to feel the new bolts (Allen key) nip down tight as my rotor cap popped off last off road trip.
i did the same thing, but didnt have to remove anything much, as i used a impact drill that had a long nose.Quote:
Originally Posted by eckolsim
i agree, the new threads feel great.
What size helicoil/drill bit is used for the existing bolts?