When I grow up I want to be an auto electrician.........
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When I grow up I want to be an auto electrician.........
Too many black lines, not enough colours for me!
Mine is (or at least was) just activated by plugging in to the rear 12v accessory plug in the boot, no switches involved (yes, call me amateur!). But it's no where near bright enough. Think someone else posted something similar earlier. Currently mines un-wired whilst I was waiting for a thread like this to show up! :whistling::thumbsup:
Wouldn't mind getting this wired up "properly" but with only the one battery currently installed, I take it it wouldn't take much to re-wire to the second battery at a later stage if need be?
I always worry about cutting or tapping into the wrong wire and rendering the motor useless....!! :angel:
Then it always seems to cost me 3 times as much to get it repaired than it would have been if I'd have taken to a shop in the first place!! ;)
Cheers for the posts and REALLY useful info guys.....the knowledge on this forum never fails to amaze me! :cool::cool:
Is there a constant 12v source located somewhere in the rear of the d2's (if you dont have a dual battery) before I start running a separate wire from the battery for the light?Quote:
Originally Posted by sschmez
mine has a 12 socket on the lhs, just in front of the third row seat. Not sure of any other, but thats just because I dont know....there certainly could be... check out rave's wiring diag. I assume that not every D2 has the rear cig lighter ? Mine is the HSE spec so im tipping its part of that package.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocky88
I'd say that they all have them. Mine's just the base model and I have the socket in mine. Note that you must have the key switched to "accessories" or there will be no power to this socket (same as the front cig light socket).Quote:
Originally Posted by Flamin Strides
But as others have said, probably not a good source to run a light from, as only relatively light wiring to this point and too much voltage drop. I find that it's not even a real good power source for connecting up the third battery for my fridge / camping requirements.
Much easier to run an independent, fused, 12V supply from the front of the vehicle to the rear, and then take off from this supply for any accessories, using separate lines individually fused.
There is a "always on" 12v cable up in the drivers side brake lens,,
nice thick one too;)
late edit,
maybe a trailer wire??
Quote:
Originally Posted by AussieAub
I will post some pics when completed but I used Kieren's idea, and Stevo's circuit, thanks a lot guys.Quote:
Originally Posted by sschmez
Using Stevo's circuit I put a switch in the back next to the switch that runs my hidden compressor. I bought an extending work light from Bunnings for $30, and really good 12v 5-LED Light from Super Cheap for $60 (there were cheaper ones but this one was very robust and well sealed, using LED's so has low amperage and so can run it from the same cabling as I have used for my compressor - compressor maximum 20amps and the flood light max of 1.15amps).
I then purchased a 2600mm flexible coiled extension cord, which will live inside the extending pole so is protected from the sun, people etc but will extend the full height of the pole, found it on eBay.
I used Narva switches, and used Bosch relays bought also via eBay
The light is mounted on top of the pole, the wiring goes into the back of the pole through a hole I drilled (will put a grommet on here to protect the wiring), then wired to the coiled extension cord down through the middle of the pole through the same grommet as the windscreen washer fluid pipe, then through into the side panelling under the rear sill protector to the left hand side, where my compressor etc lives. The compressor and the light run of a separate circuit run directly from the standard battery in the front through the firewall grommet, under the sills and behind the trim, so all neat and protected. The wire in the engine bay is protected by flexible corrugated tubing, and runs behind the acoustic foam on the firewall.
I have mounted it to the wheel carrier using marine grade stainless steel u-bolts, and I sleeved the bottom of the pole with an old bicycle inner tube, to give the U bolts a better grip and to prevent scratching and rusting.
And then finally I put one bolt through the wheel carrier into the pole itself as a locator so that it doesn't twist around.
All connections are sealed with Heat Shrink Tubing.
So a big thanks to the forum as 2 months ago I would have not done this, but from listening and reading all of you I have learnt a lot.
Inspired by Kieren I completed this today, wiring will be done this weekend.
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Looking good mate!Quote:
Originally Posted by DCPAus
Can't believe my idea has so many followers...!! :cool::cool:
I ended up doing similar. I removed one of the extensions in the pole so there is only two levels not three.
I also made mine removable with a waterproof plug. This way it doesn't affect the wife's vision when not camping.
