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Thread: D1 vs D2

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tank View Post
    no air bags so you can really taste the vinyl when you have a head on
    Not too sure if I want to be able to taste the vinyl really...


  2. #12
    It'sNotWorthComplaining! Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by QWOPPER View Post
    Can you swap D2 (or even D3/4) seats into the D1? can the rear bench be swapped between a D1 and D2?
    I don't think the d2 rear would not fit as the seats are slightly wider, don't know about D3/4, but doubt it

  3. #13
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    For long distance touring the D2 is by far the better option. For serious off roading where you will need to heavilly mod either vehicle anyway and where you will get panel damage and wreck things the D1 is the better option.

    I'd be happy driving my D2a around Australia with the occassional off road trip. I would hate myself very quickly if I tried a similar trip in my D1.

    As for power, my modded manual V8 D1 is much quicker in a straight line then our standard auto V8 D2a. Both suffer from pretty bad fuel numbers, especially the D1, but that might have more to do with how good it sounds when being revved out. ...

    cheers,
    Terry
    Cheers,
    Terry

    D1 V8 (Gone)
    D2a HSE V8 (Gone)
    D3 HSE TDV6 (Unfortunately Gone)
    D4 V8

  4. #14
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Looking at it from a different point of view - the D1 is essentially a rebodied RR Classic. As such most mechanical parts have been thoroughly tested and are readily available from many sources - and cheap.

    The D2 is essentially the same vehicle, completely redesigned along the same lines, but not trying to use existing parts. The result is there are many parts unique to the D2, and these parts tend to be expensive and will get harder to find more rapidly in the future.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  5. #15
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    If you go with a V8 D2 then plan for the potential to have to do the engine (liners/BHG's) and go straight to a 4.6 swap. Makes it what it should have been, not necessarily quicker, well it is but this just adds to the costs, but much better fuel economy and better torque. I'm running as above with an auto and getting usual 400k/tank around the city and 800-900k/tank on long highway cruising at 110-120km/h. I have the std tank and just about finished a pair of sill tanks to add another 70-80lt each so that should push it to 1000k or so.

    The ACE is fine off-road, though I'm waiting for the day something goes wrong and the potential for removing it and swapping to dis-connectable standard swaybars. The radius/trailing arms are unique to the D2 and so are the bushes, but they do (to me at least) lend themselves to more unrestricted movement.

    My father has one of the very last D1's )also V8) and manual, no airbags. Gets similar highway economy but it's defiantly less comfortable the longer you sit in it and is a lot smaller in general. The D2 seats will not fit in the rear. Different floor mounts and upright latches.

  6. #16
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    Not sure I'd agree with the need to plan on fitting a 4.6 as a necessity for ownership of a D2 and I'm surprized to hear that you get better mileage with a 4.6 fitted.
    Most I know who have a 4.6 say they use at least the same as a 4.0 if not more.

    While there is no such thing as an economical V8 Rover I always work on the basis that petrol / fuel is the cheapest part of owning a 4x4.

    cheers,
    Terry
    Cheers,
    Terry

    D1 V8 (Gone)
    D2a HSE V8 (Gone)
    D3 HSE TDV6 (Unfortunately Gone)
    D4 V8

  7. #17
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    Reasons I bought a D2 over D1:
    More powerful TD engine.
    HSE model and luxuries that go with it.
    Larger cargo area.
    Prefer the look of the updated D2.

    If there was a luxury spec D1 available here (I couldn't find any, but they did seem to have them in the USA), I may have considered it.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by twr7cx View Post
    If there was a luxury spec D1 available here (I couldn't find any, but they did seem to have them in the USA), I may have considered it.
    There was a 'luxury spec' D1 - the ES was available from the time the update was released - leather, abs, sunroofs, twin airbags, alloy wheels etc etc

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  9. #19
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    If you're tall, the D1 also has a lower windscreen which can become annoying. (Probably only after driving a D2)

    W

  10. #20
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    D1 200series

    [QUOTE= Loaded and towing a camping trailer the 300tdi was a bit underpowered too (it has >300K km so it could be a bit tired too).

    300 k sounds quite low

    I had one of the first D1s and when it was passed onto No.1 son it had done over 600 kays. I had no engine problems except for general maintenance and belt change. Unfortunately the timing belt takes time to change as all the front of the motor has to come apart. The manual gearbox played up under waranty and it turned out to be a faulty clutch pressure plate. Plate and disc were replaced under warranty.Boost had been increased to 16psi and the fuel adjusted accordingly.
    He has just reconditioned the motor at 840km. Believe it or not, a rebore was not needed jut a light hone. Good servicing appears to have been the secret. Together with a good old fashoned series 3 block.
    I now have a TD5 however I still some times miss the old girl.

    Tony
    Last edited by Grumpy; 26th October 2011 at 11:50 PM. Reason: words added

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