Printable View
X2 Erich , have done a few of these , all re-mapped bar one , mine has done around 120000k with this mod and , along with the others none have ever had a problem , just replace studs with new quality m8,s when doing the job .Quote:
Originally Posted by Bundalene
Sometimes the question is not whether something will break, but what will break, and at what limits. If the Al head and Iron manifold expand at different rates which breaks the studs, and so you replace the studs with stronger studs, then you are more likely to have the head or manifold break (or warp or whatever).Quote:
Originally Posted by alpick
While I'm no expert here, I can guess that if you fix the problem of differing expansion rates by tying everything down stronger, you risk more catastrophic breaks, or plastic deformation of the components. Bridges and railways are built with the capacity to slide or grow together as they heat and cool. Seems reasonable to allow for sideways movement in this specific case.
Looking here Aluminium has a coefficient of expansion of about 22um/m/K, and cast iron about 10.5. For a temperature change of say 600oC over a length of about 0.5m, the difference in movement between the head and the manifold could be in the region 3mm or more. Not much, but a movement of 1.5mm at each end of the manifold against fixed studs to me would seem to apply a bit of pressure. Widening the holes seems a simple fix, and if the central stud hole isn't widened, it'll fix the manifold in position well enough.
SInce buying a 2003 D2 in July, we have done:
Rear SLS bags
Fuel Harness from tank (rub through)
Oil and Filters + Air
Split the hose from MAF to Turbo (replaced all with silicone)
Cam Seal
Battery
Shocks getting done in next few weeks (absoloutly rooooooooted!)
Adding a MadMan
Boost gauge
pretty much routine maintenance:cool:
Hi Pedro,
What is the easiest way to check for fuel line rub through? Do replacement and preventative measures always require the tank to be lowered?
Nick
I could not find anything on The Good Oil.
D2s have an inspection/access plate in the floor of the luggage compartment, it is under the carpet. The carpet can be lifted by removing the screws on the strip at the edge of the compartment where the door seals.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pippin
You will know when you have rub through of the fuel lines, your car will mark its territory with fuel.
Thanks Slug_Burner,
I have already replaced the fuel pump once and removed it twice, I was asking if there is an easy way for checking the wear points of the fuel lines, particularly the High Pressure line without too much work as I don't want to wait for it to mark it's territory if I have a risk of developing a problem .
Thanks
Nick
Replaced all fluids -diff oil, engine, transfer, radiator etc. and filters.
Had underside pressure cleaned to inspect for leaks
Rebuilt front diff- had a lot of wear (about$950)
New rotors and pads- easy to do yourself (don't forget to buy some new locking screws for the rotors. Costs $2-5 each, but you don't want to damage the old ones and not have a replacement)
Gearbox service.
Used some guys at Redcliffe. Know their stuff- well I think they do!...
Havn;t spotted yet but clean all the earth points.causes a lot of the electrical problems,
No one has mentioned the problem of the ATF hose parting from the front cooler. This has happened to me twice. On both occasions it couldn't have happened in a worse place.
The symptom is one minute you are cruising, and the next minute the engine is disconnected from the wheels. By this time almost all of your ATF will have ended up on the track or sprayed over what ever is behind you.
You will need to repair the connection. Access is difficult and requires removal of the air filter box. To effect a temporary repair you need to ditch the OEM connector and fit a heavy duty hose clamp.
If you brought spare ATF with you (you'll need several 1L bottles) refilling the tranny is very hard. Lying on your back under a hot car, hands covered in ATF you have to syphon it up into the small access hole in the gear box. Enjoy the smell of ATF burning on the exhaust pipe while you do this.
After this happened twice to me, I started to recognise the smell of burning ATF before loss of transmission. Crikey, I even smelled burning ATF in my dreams!
The solution has been to fit a P38 sump to the tranny. This has an ATF dip stick tube which is also a filler. Secondly, the dodgy OEM hose and connector has been replaced with a Pirtek hose and a clamp that won't part as soon as the vehicle is 1000kms from civilisation.