Thread: rear diff seal LEAKING

Just put a new rotoflex on mine last week - that's the easy part and the reason I noticed a lot of dirt sticking to the diff/oil leak... The old one was shot, but at 210k Kms it's not suprising!

Well the rotoflex is a known weak point, if it fails at pretty much any speed it's gonna be ugly. If anyone has a std flange suitable for a D2 let me know as I have everything else....

We have never seen a rubber prop coupling have a sudden failure. They tend to give you warning. But, as with a UJ, if you ignore it then yes, it's going to fail. You'll still get a vibration when driving, and you'll be able to see the coupling perrish and split.

Did you buy a cheap one or did you buy a decent OE spec coupling?

On A D2 the angle of the differential and propshaft is less 'aggressive' than the D1, the rotoflex seem to last way longer. I have a slide hammer with an M8 threaded bolt attached, sometimes have to heat the spigot gently to soften and release the factory loctite, then easily comes out.

JC

Originally Posted by Terrain Vehicles

We have never seen a rubber prop coupling have a sudden failure. They tend to give you warning. But, as with a UJ, if you ignore it then yes, it's going to fail. You'll still get a vibration when driving, and you'll be able to see the coupling perrish and split.

Did you buy a cheap one or did you buy a decent OE spec coupling?

OE landrover,with allthe bolts and new bush

I went through 2 rotoflexes, the original failed after about 50k and gave some notice. The second went without warning about 25k later in the middle of the Simpson. The replacement was OE. I've now replaced with a cardan joint.

The rotoflex is ok, in my view if you do limited offroad, no lift and light loads. Too much load and flexing just destroys them, IMHO. I still have a brand new OE rotoflex in its sealed plastic bag, if anyone's interested. PM me.
Mundy

this is interesting--the leak fixed--took a slide hammer the size of a mans fist on a 600mm slide[sorry the plate and 2 wooden blocks did't work],the vibration that came in around 95-100km was getting worse and I was thinking seriously that the front tail shaft[again] maybe engine mounts[again]even auto trans??? truly a bit of a worry...Well while at the workshop [in Cairns] with a very friendly crew,and me asking every question in the book, they said that the bush inside the tail shaft was a bit of a bugger to remove[what a bloody understatement] it took about 20 mins with an air chisel and eventually removal of the shaft and use of a vice and a large hamer, coal chisel and air chisel again...All back together again and vibration unnoticeable?????????? So for all those people with the vibes have a go at replacing that shaft bush,but remember--it could be A BIT OF A BUGGER TO REMOVE!!!!!

Originally Posted by greg smith

this is interesting--the leak fixed--took a slide hammer the size of a mans fist on a 600mm slide[sorry the plate and 2 wooden blocks did't work],the vibration that came in around 95-100km was getting worse and I was thinking seriously that the front tail shaft[again] maybe engine mounts[again]even auto trans??? truly a bit of a worry...Well while at the workshop [in Cairns] with a very friendly crew,and me asking every question in the book, they said that the bush inside the tail shaft was a bit of a bugger to remove[what a bloody understatement] it took about 20 mins with an air chisel and eventually removal of the shaft and use of a vice and a large hamer, coal chisel and air chisel again...All back together again and vibration unnoticeable?????????? So for all those people with the vibes have a go at replacing that shaft bush,but remember--it could be A BIT OF A BUGGER TO REMOVE!!!!!

Yeah, should've warned you about that, they look for alll the world like a fitted for life part, getting them out IS a nightmare. Very important bit though,

JC