Torque Converter problem?

Just tried the tq lock up as mentioned above , td5 . I can hit 3000 rpm :) . I agree with some of your comments thou , if you try and accelerate the auto wants to run up to 2500 at least or 2750 . But once warm if you can get it into overdrive and easy the throttle on it pulls better at or just under 2000 .
I would say my trans is on teh way out as if not driven for a couple of days when you start it up and select reverse ( to get out of the shed ) there is nothing for up to 5 sec's , then it picks up . I know bugger all about auto's so either I am lucky and its just low on fluid ( it could be but doubt this is a symptom ) or the fluid is draining out of the torque converter when it possibly should not . Anyone know (if fluid can drain out not if my auto is dead ) ?

Cheers
Chris

Being slow to pick up the gears from N or P is a symptom of low oil. Just remember to check/set lever when running not off. That could be the issue as it'll do that if the level is set without the engine running.

I'd tend to give it a service (filter change) and replace oil if it's an unknown and see what color/smell the oil that comes out is.

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Originally Posted by Chris77

I would say my trans is on teh way out as if not driven for a couple of days when you start it up and select reverse ( to get out of the shed ) there is nothing for up to 5 sec's , then it picks up . Cheers
Chris

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The nothing for about 5 seconds is possibly due to a failed MAF. I had that for a while on until I replaced the MAF and problem was fixed. What are the MAF readings ?

My experiences with the D2 tranny have not been happy but I am happy to pass on what I have learnt.
At about 230k I put the disco in for a gearbox service (tanny wasn't playing by the rules) found out there was stuff in the oil that was not more oil so a strip down and rebuild was required. Gearbox "specialist " tells me the gear sprags a a bit worn but should be OK. Many others parts changed out and a few mods to drive shafts carried out (recommend these) total bill around $4800. About 50k later gearbox again playing separate game, took it back for checkup and now bits of spare metal in oil. Theory was the TC had failed. Not happy with this diagnosis as TC was part of earlier work (got told ZF were a bit weak so bad luck). Took problem to Landrover whizz and he says gearbox is gr8 but TC is suss in D2's recommended tranny fixer who says happy to fix if I was happy to pay a bit for a beefed up TC. gearbox pulled down and the problem was the gear sprags which literally fell apart in the process of the strip down. Rebuild completed with beefed up TC and it goes like a rocket. Guy told me I would feel the difference in gear shifts with the new TC and he was spot on.
My suggestions 1. If tranny guy doesn't recommend a beefed up TC go somewhere that does. 2. If tranny guy says worn parts will be ok tell him to change them (parts cost a lot but an "ok" worn part failing takes out all the new bits you have paid for as well as another massive labour cost.
Another tip I was told for you D2 towers. Use 1st gear to get moving then shift to D apparently different clutches come into play and is easier on the box. Also I got told that locking into 3rd for towing may save a bit of wear but the amount of fuel you will burn is way way ahead of the rebuild that you may eventually go for, ie all autos will need a rebuild eventually and letting it go in D will shorted the period between rebuilds but cost wise it is not good spending.

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Originally Posted by gazk

The nothing for about 5 seconds is possibly due to a failed MAF. I had that for a while on until I replaced the MAF and problem was fixed. What are the MAF readings ?

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I do not think so in this case , engine picks up just fine , just no drive . Its only noticeable when its been sitting for more than a day , when in day to day use it seems fine . Will plug in and check it thou next time I am past the rovacom .

Waiting for a suitable time to change out the filters and oil , hopefully this improves it . Otherwise it will stuff it by some of the net gossip I have read , ie fresh oil in a worn out box .

Mine always does that,
After sitting in the garage for a few days if I want to reverse out immediately after starting, it takes a few seconds after selecting R for the tranny to produce drive, but if I let her idle for a minute or 2 before selecting reverse, the tranny provides reverse drive as soon as R is selected.
I assumed it was fluid circulation thing after being left idle for a time.

had the d2 for 6 years now

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Originally Posted by Baffle

Oh, you do know you have a 2 speed torque converter ?

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and what pray tell is one of those?

Ah have I called it the wrong name?,
So the converter slips and locks i'n every gear, what do you call it ?

Mine sounds the same as alpicks , bonus .

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Originally Posted by Baffle

,
So the converter slips and locks i'n every gear,

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Not Mine :( . Not a dig , mine is buggered I would say . After all the chatter about gearboxes this last week I have been doing some driving to see whats going on . I have been tring to reduce the fuel consumption for a while and have had in the back of my mind that the auto may be on the way out .

Today I have come to the conclusion that my g/box can't hold the lock up . Engine rpm is directly related to pedal position at any time . ie down the m/way at 95kph lightly press the gas and the rev's rise , more gas = more rev's up to over 3000rpm , without an increase in road speed . Come off the gas and the rev's settle at 2250 at 100kph , this is about what I thought it should be at 100 kick's so to me that implies the converter is locked and driving the engine along . If I do the same thing at 50kph , take my foot off the revs drop to idle , ie not lock up to hold up the rev's ( I thought the lock up was only in 3rd and 4th ) . Does this seem logical , know bugger all about auto's ?

Anyway I will chuck the filter kit in I have had here for a month or so and make sure it has enough fluid and see how it goes . If its still the same I will look at getting the torque converter replaced , the box runs fine , changes nicely etc but does have 240 kicks on it . Its the cheap option I know . If its still crap after that , don't buy the blue disco that will be for sale :)

Cheers
Chris

Hey Chris77, mate I am no expert and don't pretend to be, and I hope the info I gave was not incorrect as I listen to people i'n the no and hope I'm not being lead up the garden path:angel:, my auto will always change twice i'n 3rd and forth, and i'n the sand first does it too which I notice happening more than out on the road, I don't recall second doing it much at all, but sure it does it up hills when towing, I don't remember :confused: I'll try it out tomorrow. If I'm doing 100 and the car will not change revs, rather kick back down
Yours Mark