CDL

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by discotwo

Did you make yours yourself? Any chance of more photos and perhaps plans, measurements and instructions?

---

Link: CDL activator in - WOOHOO!
Works a dream! :cool::cool:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by AussieAub

Link: CDL activator in - WOOHOO!
Works a dream! :cool::cool:

---

Thanks AussieAub.

That seems like an interesting CDL activation device. I was still hoping that XHPBT1 might post some more info on his CDL activation device because he mentions his only uses "2 lengths of flat steel and a 10mm nut". That means that even I could possibly make one.

Sorry I haven't got back to you... I Will draw up something ASAP!!

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

This is roughly how i made mine

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...cdl-lever.html

Dimensions_Diagram.jpg picture by peterdesanc - Photobucket

cheers

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by XHPBT1

This is roughly how i made mine

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...cdl-lever.html

Dimensions_Diagram.jpg picture by peterdesanc - Photobucket

cheers

---

Thanks XHPBT1.

Now for the task to attempt to make one.

After seeing the photo posted by XHPBT1, i decided to see if i could sort something. Found some scrap 4mm alloy plate in shed, cut some strips, drilled a few holes, and a couple of bends and 1 hour later, i had an operational CDL lever. Sure, it is a bit rough and I could have taken a bit longer and made it look better, but you can't see it anyway. (No need to post photos as is pretty much the same as what has been put here already)

Must say, i will probably still save up and get the conversion kit to enable use in the car and on the move, or my preferred option is to make up a bracket for a small air ram to activate it (if i can be bothered)..

Either way, with very minimal work and no outlay, it is now much easier to engage the CDL by just reaching under the side of the car.

Thanks for the idea! :BigThumb:

Awesome cdl makes the d2 nearly unstoppable

I was using it today my boggie lever is awesome only thing that is annoying is when u turn off the d2 then on again with the cdl on it disables the TC then u got to get out of the d2 but over all it is well worth an hr of time and a bit of materials

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by The Bullfrog

Either way, with very minimal work and no outlay, it is now much easier to engage the CDL by just reaching under the side of the car.

---

I made one like that, cost about $6. and worked great. Engage cdl while airing down once you get off road. Forget about it until airing up at the end of the day. Just make sure you know how the D2 computer and traction control interacts when it senses the cdl has been activated otherwise you may find alarms showing on the dash and have traction control deactivated.

you can stop the cdl disabling the traction control by cutting the wire as per instructions on the ashcroft site

To finish off the job...

1) Disconnect the battery. Unscrew the four hex screws in the glove box hinges. Reach round the side of the glove box with each hand and pull the closing mechanism upwards. Slide the glove box out

2) Pull out the 3 push-studs on the black cardboard panel underneath the glovebox, and undo the screw stud at the back. Remove the panel.

3) Near the outer side of the gap behind the glove box, you will see 2 or 3 ECUs, depending on whether you have ACE, I think. The SLABS ECU is the centre of the three, or the outside of the two. It has 5 black connector blocks underneath. Remove the centre block of the five from underneath the ECU.

4) Look for the black & blue wire running to pin 9 of the connector block, which is the central pin on the lower row, i.e. the row furthest from the retaining clips. At this point, make sure you have the right connector, and the right pin!

5) Cut this black & blue wire & tape off the ends. (Give enough space to solder it back together if you find out you have cut the wrong one...) Reconnect the connector. Replace the panel and the glovebox. Reconnect the battery.

Please note :

This is not needed for 2003 on (facelift) models as the ECU has been reprogrammed to take care of NOT disabling traction control/ABS when CDL in engaged, when ignition is switched on.

To test: engage the CDL and start the car up. The CDL light should be lit, but the ABS/TC lights should not be lit up. This is correct - it means that the SLABS ECU is not disabling ABS/TC when you start the car up with the diff lock engaged

ask a stupid question...
which way does this nut have to be turned and how far to turn it? and its the nut at the bottom of the thread sticking up on the top front to the transfer case yeah?