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Thread: Check your alpine lights adhesive edges

  1. #1
    It'sNotWorthComplaining! Guest

    Check your alpine lights adhesive edges

    I started to fix up a SMALL bit of bubbling paint with rust around the bottom of the alpine light.
    After close inspection I noticed the sikaflex type adhesive the holds the window in place could be lifted under the feather edge of the entire seal. Lifting this I noticed a lot more surface rust ALL around the opening under the adhesive.
    So I'm in the process of removing the alpine window and reprime and paint the entire opening.Better to do it now than have it rust right through the metal.
    I thought by D2 Land Rover solved the Alpine window rust after the problems with D1

  2. #2
    Discobaker Guest
    Apparently not, that's something I quite often check on mine & thus far all good (touch wood)
    But I do have some bubbles happening under the rubber overlap from the window right at the top of the rear doorskins!!!!
    Not game enough to look!😳

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Cambewarra, NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by Discobaker View Post
    But I do have some bubbles happening under the rubber overlap from the window right at the top of the rear doorskins!!!!
    Not game enough to look!��
    Rust is quite common on the window frame channel under that rubber were it goes into the top of the doorskin. I've seen a couple almost rusted through.

  4. #4
    Discobaker Guest
    Is the window frame channel separate from the door skin? Is it easily removed & replaced?
    Cheers
    Mat

  5. #5
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    Cambewarra, NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by Discobaker View Post
    Is the window frame channel separate from the door skin? Is it easily removed & replaced?
    Cheers
    Mat
    On the rear door there are 5 large Torx head screws on the outside that secure the frame to the door. There are also bolts behind the trim that secure the quarter window glass. You also need to detach the glass from the window winder mechanism (2 bolts).

    See workshop manual page 76-1-4/5

  6. #6
    It'sNotWorthComplaining! Guest
    Well what a cow to get that window out. And the bubbling paint approx 12cm long was just the teaser, all along the bottom edge hidden under the sealer was rust, it was starting to pit the metal, If I left if for another winter I reckon I would have had holes through it.
    Checking Rave re the refitting instructions it says to create a bead of adhesive 10mm high 6mm wide and 8.5 mm in from the window edge.
    Someone at the factory mustn't have read Rave because there was more adhesive than that, it was almost like a piece of rubber filler pad was glued on 1st and then some adhesive added later to stick the glass on?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    If I ever have to remove mine then they'll be staying out and the lining will be re-trimmed to cover the hole as well. Hate 'em can't see a point. Just another place to leak and rust. At least it's steel and easier to weld up.

  8. #8
    It'sNotWorthComplaining! Guest
    pics of effected area, a couple of paint blisters and after removing window all this. I have cleaned up area with wire power brush and will treat it with rust killer.
    Note the top is ok but bottom and 1/2 way up sides pitted steel.








  9. #9
    Discobaker Guest
    Thanks GazK, much appreciated. Rust repair added to the "list"😊

  10. #10
    It'sNotWorthComplaining! Guest
    Finished rust treating it,primed and spot putty filled all the rust pitting.

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