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Thread: Repair Chassis Mounts on '99 D2 TD5

  1. #1
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    Question Repair Chassis Mounts on '99 D2 TD5

    Hi

    I have searched the forum and cannot find the answer.

    I have noticed that on the front of my '99 D2 TD5, the chassis mounts are cracked from the bolt hole to the outside of the mount (see photo).

    What is the easiest & safest way to repair this?

    Thanks
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
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    I don't have any experience with a Discovery chassis specifically, but this is exactly what happens to the tray mounts on a Defender cab chassis. I have only repaired them with the tray off (I'm guessing you aren't going to pull the body off ), so if you can get that bolt out of the way (I don't know what it goes into), grind along the crack with a grinding disc, perhaps 1-2mm into the metal and then weld. When I re-assemble I make up a rectangular washer to go between the nut and the chassis to spread the load across the chassis bracket.

    I'm only a self taught welder though, so someone else might have a better idea.

    James.

  3. #3
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    There was a chassis recall on D2 because of cracking!

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  4. #4
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    Actually looking at the picture again, that "bolt" is part of the rubber mount is it, so I guess it's not going to come out without lifting the body? You might be able to do what I've suggested with it in place but it will be hard to get the grinder in there. Die grinder perhaps? You'd have to be careful about heating up the rubber too much while welding as well.


    James.

  5. #5
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    I would think that you would loosen off the front and midway body mounts and lift the body with a jack a couple of inches. You would have to undo the steering column and take off the fan and shroud.
    This would prevent setting the rubber bush on fire.
    Geez, you must drive her pretty hard . You should check around the steering box also as they are known to crack there.
    Regards Philip A

  6. #6
    Discobaker Guest
    Was going to say something similar to rainman but then thought it'd be difficult to get a welder in, top & bottom, & almost impossible to get a grinder in there to grind it flush to allow that rectangle shaped washer previously mentioned to sit flat against the existing steel. Is there any way u could maybe cut the whole bracket off the chassis, repair the crack the same way then weld the bracket back on complete? Running a weld down both the outside & inside of the bracket when replacing? Prob be stronger than factory if done right I reckon.

  7. #7
    Discobaker Guest
    Too slow lol

  8. #8
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    Possible Solution

    Quote Originally Posted by Discobaker View Post
    Was going to say something similar to rainman but then thought it'd be difficult to get a welder in, top & bottom, & almost impossible to get a grinder in there to grind it flush to allow that rectangle shaped washer previously mentioned to sit flat against the existing steel. Is there any way u could maybe cut the whole bracket off the chassis, repair the crack the same way then weld the bracket back on complete? Running a weld down both the outside & inside of the bracket when replacing? Prob be stronger than factory if done right I reckon.
    After reading Rainman, PhilipA and Discobaker - think I may try to lift her 1 cm or so, see if I can put some kind of heatshield (possibly fibro-cement board) between the rubber and the top of the mount.

    Use a Dremel to grind the inside surface of the mount, make a "full size" rectangular washer, fit that in and weld that to the inside edges and front edge of the mount.
    Last edited by DCPAus; 7th December 2011 at 04:13 PM. Reason: Added extra information

  9. #9
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    That sounds pretty good . Make sure you take pictures!

    James.

  10. #10
    Discobaker Guest
    Looks from the pic like you've got plenty of length in the by too so maybe a rectangular washer out of 5mm plate would be the go.

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