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When I did mine same result 02 model, bolt was finger tight and no locktite. I found the best way to get the sump gasket in was to zip tie the gasket to the sump on every second hole, postion the sump and gasket and the cut the zip tie and add the rest of the bolts.Quote:
Originally Posted by Catmatt
I just made sure I put the rear bolts in first because that's where gasket is most difficult to keep in place. Anywhere else you can adjust it later with a screwdriver before you tighten the bolts but you cant get to the gasket at the back.
done a few now,, and for some stuped resion,, iv found defenders are more likly to have the lock tight then disco;s it seems??? but still had fenders with no lock tight, il be checking my td5 - 12/04
Hi all, I'm not one to mind dragging up an old thread. Just wondering regarding this oil pump bolt...
I found that my D2 had the bolt checked and "locktite-d" by Bruce Davis back in '08. It is 9 years and 130k later. Does anyone know if they should be rechecked? I'm assuming not, but wanted to ask as it looks like I need to do the sump gasket anyways.thinking about it, for a few bucks I should just buy a new thread-lockered bolt just in case. Thoughts?
yes, if the sump is off you check the bolt.Quote:
Originally Posted by casta66
I reccomend loctite 262/263 and if you can find one use a flange head bolt with the anti turn flares under its head.
you can reuse the original bolt if you clean bot the hole and the thread of the bolt of the old loctite produce (which you should do any way)
the loctite primer and curing accelerator 7452 is appropriate but its key ingredient is acetone which if you have the auto Disco is in your nail polish remover bottle [bigwhistle]. If you dont use the accelerator its advisable to wait for at least an hour before filling with oil and starting it to give the loctite chance to cure. Generic brake clean type products are acceptable as cleaners for the face of the pully and de oiling the bolt hole.
I also match mark the bolt with paint pen so on the next inspection it can be done as a visual only.
You're not just a pretty face Dave,, :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
Thanks Dave. That's great advice. Yes I do have the AUTO Disco. But being environmentally conscious, my nail polish remover is acetone free. I'll have to ask my wife if she has some acetone in the shed and will let me use it.[bigsmile]Quote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
Sorry any idea where I would find the thread size and length of the bolt, if I am to find an anti turn bolt?Quote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
It makes you wonder about the quality of the R&D department at some of these big manufacturers, a left handed thread or a lock-tab on the bolt would have made this issue non existent.
A question for the guys who have done this a few times, would it be possible to throw a set Main bearing and big end shells in if doing the bolt and rear main,
It's usually the front main cap that stops you from doing this on a lot of other motors but from a video of inside a TD5 i have seen it looks like the front cap hasn't a lot bolted to it.
I would check the oil pressure with a gauge before i do it though.
I'd use a genuine bolt and Loctite it, and once Loctited and tensioned (properly, ie clean and dry threads before appyling Loctite) it will never come loose.Quote:
Originally Posted by casta66
QC can vary too much on HT bolts, regardless of head markings. A lot come from the far east and are pretty sus in critical applications so genuine is safer.
If you can use a Socket Head Capscrew (SHCS, or a lay person would call it an Allen Bolt) use Unbrako or HoloKrome, their QC is excellent and metalurgy unrivalled. By and large I don't trust industrial HT bolts.
The easy/safe bet is genuine.
Off the top of my head re Loctite grades, 243 is for bolts (can undo with handtools) 262 is stud lock, 272 (if you can find it) would be ideal. Slightly higher holding strength than 243, but, it has a higher temp rating so ideal for inside a hard working engine.