here is what I did a few years ago, now 50000km ago. No problem whatever.
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I found a different way to drop Auto Transmission Temps.
When they said the Auto was going to die in the old Pathfinder just before a big trip I didn't have the time or money to get it fixed.
I dropped some Cost Effective Maintenance AW10 in to try and get it through the trip.
What I did find was it worked better, took longer to warm up and seemed to run cooler. It also made the trip with a off road day thrown in and back.
It didn't go bang as the Auto Specialist said it would and got another 2years from it before trading on a Disco.
Personally I think it is great stuff and might help the transmission from making heat that you have to get rid of.
Finally got my auto cooler in this arvo. Plumbed into passenger side of orig cooler as easy to get to. Was going to upload some pics but apparently the upload feature has been disabled by the administrator. Not sure what that means?![]()
Just had the crimped end of the return line blow off, It slowly pumped 3.5 liters of fluid out all over the underside of the car. Was traveling 100Km at the time and was only alerted by the watchdog alarm going off at 90c. Limped into a Hungry Jacks car park in Newcastle and with the help of the NRMA and a fellow motorist found the failed crimp on the return hose. It looks exactly like the pictures in the PDF post above, I am now going to replace all these crimps with proper fittings. Just wanted to ask if anyone has modified the Landy oil cooler to use a different fitting or are the push on Land Rover fittings not prone to failure and it is just the crimp that needs to be replaced on the push on fitting and the metal hoses?
Try as I might (I have searched for 2 hours) I cant find any posts or information regarding replacing the Land Rover push on fittings on the original oil cooler.
Plenty of information on braising fittings on the steel fluid lines to replace the crimp hose connection but no information on if it is possible to swap out the oil cooler push on fittings. I believe the cooler is aluminum so this would mean a barbed fitting of similar material ?
The cooler itself is prone to developing leaks where the push on fitting pipe meets the cooler itself - if that makes sense. I had mine replaced when it developed a weeping crack and before a complete failure. There was talk about a stronger version of the cooler in this area but I just had a genuine part put in. Was expensive I recall.
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1996 D1 V8 - gone
2002 D2 Td5 ES- gone but still running elsewhere
2013 D4 SDV6 HSE - gone
2023 Defender 110SE D300
i will be embarking on upgrading/adding an extra trans cooler to my disco as well. i have never had issues with it over heating towing my horsefloat, but towing my friends new one back from melbourne over the weekend, it over heated after that long long climb uphill out of melbourne. changed the oil and the filter in there lastnight. it was horrible. so as ill be needing to get a larger horse float as well in the next few months (plus a trip over the simspon desert, which might cause it to over heat also) ill be adding an extra one in i think and this seems a better option than removing the standard one and replacing that.
I'm looking for a bit more info on how to actually plumb the new cooler into the existing pipe. Can anyone who has finished shed some light on the actual cut and fittings?
I have a cooler and length of suitable pipe and I'm looking to do similar to BIG O without getting custom pipes made. As I understand it flows in both directions so there is no specific return pipe. I've read installing in front of the fan is preferred so I'm aiming for the driver's side - is there a general consensus on which side is easier?
Do I cut the middle of the stock rubber section and add a brass barbed splice on each end of the cut pipe, then join new pipe to new cooler and back?
Do barbed elbows make it easier?
Thanks for any and all help![]()
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