Out of interest did you torque anything to the correct setting or just 'nip' it all?
A bit of a mixed bag of things to say here so apologies in advance for the idle ramblings..
Since the relocation from Melb to Adl over Christmas I have seen the end of my battery, alternator, a minor collision and broken wing mirror, the fluid fall out of my rear view mirror, then I broke a windscreen washer jet and the rear wiper arm when cleaning it. All now repaired or replaced thanks to Battery World, Seaton Auto Electrics, TRS and Rimmer Bros.
I thought I was ending 2011 with only the cost of servicing (by self) and a new power steering pump until the last flurry, but total spend for the year of $1500 for all repairs, maintenance and servicing is still darn excellent IMHO.
Change of subject. For the past month or so the front torsion bar links (sway bar links) have felt and sounded "clunky" and so I've been checking for cost of replacements, not much at $90 a pair here (Adl) to 4.75pounds from UK (plus postage). Anyway, on a separate issue, today I gave the GGAT2 tyres their usual 6000k rotation which includes the spare. During this I had the opportunity to easily access the torsion bar links and found the bottom bolt on the front right, ever so slightly loose, a quid nip with a 18mm spanner and the car drives as if its on rails again (also 'cos its got ACE)brilliant !!!
As such I was keen to nip up everything else, earth connections, steering, anything I could find a spanner to fit and as if you wouldn't guess, 1 of the M8 flanged nuts on the left side manifold flange/exhaust bolts was loose again, and 1 completely missing from the right, I carry spares these days so was a quick fix and have now gotten rid of the subtle fart that had crept undetected to replace the V8 purr. Which, in all its planet saving serenity, is now back
So after the pre-emptive maintenance today, again I step back with a smile and pat the old girl on the bonnet.
A little TLC and a "stitch in time" will save an awful lot of trouble later.
And the car drives like new.
(still need to get those SA plates)
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Out of interest did you torque anything to the correct setting or just 'nip' it all?
The service schedule actually indicates that the following should be checked at EVERY service interval:
- Check for free play in propeller shaft universal/sliding joints and lubricate sliding joints
- Check for free play in anti-roll bar links and condition of rubber boots
- Check condition of gaiters to ACE actuators and remove any debris from between the ACE valve block and the chassis
- Check visually brake servo hose, brake, fuel, clutch pipes, unions, ACE pipes and electrical harnesses for chafing, leaks and corrosion
- Check for fluid leaks from power steering and suspension systems hydraulic pipes and unions for chafing and corrosion
- Check for fluid leaks from Engine, Gearbox, Transfer Box and Axles
- Check exhaust system for leaks, security and damage
- Check steering rod ball joint fixings and condition of ball joints and dust covers
- Check shock absorbers/height sensors and harness assembly for leakage and damage
- Check/tighten front and rear axle suspension link fixings, check condition of mounting rubbers
I'd guess that the majority of those who DIY service, myself included, consider the job "done" if we've changed filters and fluids.Simon's post is a bit of a timely reminder to check all those other pesky service items.
FWIW RAVE has a handy section titled "Maintenance" which details the procedures for each of the checks listed in the service schedule. All sections which refer to checking "security of fixings" include a link to relevant torque wrench settings.
Before any service I go around the car using the
RAVE maintenence advice and tighten/lubricate what I can. It's a good idea to invest in a decent torque wrench if you haven't got one. I'm sure it has saved me money and more importantly helped me understand my car far better as I am certainly no mechanic.
cheers
FB
Along similar lines I was checking my radiator hoses tonight and found that my top raidiator hose was making contact with the metal bracket beside it and had started to wear a reasonable hole in it. Lucky I caught it early.
It was my own fault as I put that hose on and didn't pay enough attention to it's placement I suspect. The hose now has a reasonable gap to the bracket.
Simon
95 Defender HCPU 130
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