Wait for it... Someone will say there's heaps of info in the Good Oil. I use CAT ELC which is the same Texaco product as the Havoline XLC or Caltex ELC. 5 liters is $17 of premix cheaper in bigger quantities.
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Wait for it... Someone will say there's heaps of info in the Good Oil. I use CAT ELC which is the same Texaco product as the Havoline XLC or Caltex ELC. 5 liters is $17 of premix cheaper in bigger quantities.
Ok guys,
from all the info you guys have given me I am going to attempt to do this job myself. It will obviously be cheaper but it gets me better aquainted with my car and I will make sure it is done preoperly. I will follw the RAVE manual but I think this www.discovery2.co.uk - Workshop TD5 Water Pump Replacement. will be my main resource.
Is there anything else you guys can think of before I start taking things apart?
I think I wll need for the job:
1xwater pump PEM500040
1xo-ring ERR6711 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/O-Ring-Wa...item3f02ec9431
(is there another o-ring for the PAS; i read that it is keyed in with the water pump?)
13 litres of coolant to refill the system from dry (super cheap; 5l and 2.5l concentrate)
7-8 litres of oil for a change (may as well since I have to remove the oil filter) (I use Valvoline fully synthetic 5w-40)
rotor oil filter and normal oil filter
General tools mainly spanners and ratchets. I have bought an 8mm ratcheting spanner as stated in the above write up.
some "o-ring grease" (or silicon grease as shown in his picture)
"scotchbrite or fine wet and dry" anybody able to elbaorate on this? I havent heard of these, are there more common equivalents?
Can anybody think if I am missing anything at all? like not even the main things, for example; I need to buy a couple of drip pans to catch oil and coolant.
Thanks for all your help guys, I am going to order a QH as the guy in the write up did as well (said LR actually used them). I will keep you all informed of how the job goes and will take a few pictures if i remember.
Hi Trevor,Quote:
Originally Posted by trevor
You don't follow the RAVE water pump routine if you are pulling the bracket to replace the o-ring. As far as I can tell it's undocumented as a complete procedure.
You can extract the water pump bracket with the water pump in place meaning that the centrifugal filter housing and turbo can be left in place. The only thing I found when I did it was that the drain pipe from the centrifugal filter housing makes it hard to get a decent swing on two of the nuts on the right hand side of the bracket.
The pump bracket is held on by 15mm (and possibly 13mm from memory) fasteners, and I found I needed spanners and sockets in these sizes to get the bracket off. The middle nut on the right side of the bracket is in a bit of a tricky spot and you'll most likely need a 3/8" or 1/2" drive socket, wobble extension and ratchet handle to get it undone.
It's getting on for 4-5 months since I replaced water pump and o-ring so the details are probably missing.
- drain coolant
- undo top clip on hose to water pump
- Remove viscous fan
- Remove belt
- remove mounting bolts from air-con pump
- remove pulley and mounting bolts from PAS pump
- remove mounting bolts from ACE pump (if fitted)
- move pumps out of the way while being careful not to damage pipes/hoses
- remove nuts/bolts from pump bracket
- extract pump bracket from engine bay
- change pump
- replace o-rng
-reverse to fit
cheers
Paul
Hey there everyone.
So I 'Successfully' installed the new water pump using this write up www.discovery2.co.uk - Workshop TD5 Water Pump Replacement., I use commas because upon taking even the banjo out I lost 3 of the 4 washers. couldnt find any at SCA and decided to go it without them. stupid idea. spits oil now whenever under pressure. the good news is that since Ive done all this today replacing it wont be too bad of a job to replace it. I will keep you guys posted. Thanks for all the info.
In the 10 meters I drove it from the nature strip to the driveway its only leaking oil from the turbocharger oil feed pipe which will hopefully be replaced tomorrow when I call LR and ask if they have one. The old water pump was full of lime scale and rust and chips on the key component. I wouldve liked to see it broken in half just to make sure that was my problem but oh well...
For anyone attempting this the above link to the write up is a good resource but you probably wont be able to follow it to the letter. I had to removed the entire turbocharger oil feed pipe for room etc. It is a VERY tight squeeze without removing the rotor oil filter housing but worth it I think because i didnt have to remove the fan, belt, PAS and airconditioning pump. Just make sure you have all the tools listed in the writeup and have a few socket extensions on hand, a few more hose clamps and some a washer for the coolant and sump if also changing oil; also a regular oil filter (and rotor filter if required).
Also when the write up says be careful no to lose the washers form the banjo... Be careful not to lose the washers from the banjo :(
So if anyone else has an issue with their turbocharger oil feed pipe this is the part number PNP101280. I am also going to replace the waste gate modulator as there have been a couple of times the car 'Kangarooed' on accerleration, the part number for that is PMK100130. I am going to just go buy both of these from LR in the city tomorrow and will inform you of the prices, though I reckon someone will post it before I get the chance :p.
PNP101280=$87.00+list (not sure what that was but he said it)
PMK100130=$48.83+list
They dont have the oil feed pipe on hand so will be delivered over night, sadly since its friday overnight is now monday...
Will pick up then and install when they give me a call.
You'll learn soon enough that LR dealers are the last place you want to buy parts from ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by trevor
Mind you the prices quoted look pretty close to the pricing on Les Richmond's website so they are pretty reasonable. If you want to get a feel for the range of prices for parts take a look at site sponsors http://www.roverparts.com.au for the $$$$$ pricing and lrautomotive.com.au for the $$ pricing. British Car Components aren't quite as cheap as LRA, but are far more reasonable than roverparts.
If you are coming from the West you should give British Car Components - spares and parts for British cars, Melbourne Victoria, Australia a buzz.
Graeme is a fantastic guy and will always track down what you need. He often has to order parts from Sydney but usually he'll have them in stock by lunchtime the next day. I let him know what I'm after then collect the next afternoon.
cheers
Paul
It always pays to check LR pricing. Some things are actually cheaper.
Regards Gordo
Check the coolant hose up high behind the turbo, if auto it's a small section of rubber hose, if manual it's a plug. Both are a common leak on the LH side.Quote:
Originally Posted by trevor
hi all.
thanks for all the help i thought i would let you know how it went.
The waterpump that i took out looked pretty bad, couldnt really tell if it was shot but the seal was bad, anyways, after replacing it with a QH water pump there have been no more leaks/loss of coolant in the last week or so. I did the job according to this write up www.discovery2.co.uk - Workshop TD5 Water Pump Replacement. pretty much to the letter. I did take off the whole banjo/oil feed pipe and ended up losing washers and replacing that banjo and turbo waste gate valve (part numbers and prices are in an earlier post). All in all I am very happy with the job, there were a few hiccups involving the banjo such as lost washers and not tightning the bolt tight enough; in both instances there were oil leaks but that was cleared up relatively easily.
If anybody is looking to do the water pump job I would recommend the above link as it doesnt involve too much removal of other components, it is a tight squeeze but seeing as though this was my only issue at the time I decided I didnt want to risk doing something wrong when removing unnecessary components.
2 points; dont lose the banjo washers and get a decent 8mm ratcheting spanner; not from SCA as i found it consistently started to ratch the opposite direction, get one that doesnt have the option to change left or right, one that you flip and that changes left to right. (theres one on ebay for like $12)
Any questions bout this job and my experience ask and I'll do my best.
Trev.
Thanks for the tip, I had already checked there and was dry as a bone. ended up being from the weep hole so replaced the water pump.Quote:
Originally Posted by HSE30