Printable View
I found this whilst looking for a good electrical system for the batteries this might solve the 3 battery question for you
SC80PCWK_Info
I am thinking of this path so I can put a large battery, maybe two in an off-road trailer with a solar panel as well. My concern is the alternator will I need to upgrade? or can I get the existing recon'd and retrofitted to give me a greater output, had this done to my Toyota (sorry for swearing) which worked well but that was back in the early 90's.
Tim from Traxide is a member here and will jump in and offer advice quite freely (as long as you don't ask about certain types of battery chargers).
Yellow tops wont fit into the rear corner trays I thought. Which is why I'm cramming them into the original location, plus I'm leaving the corner for a compressor.
like this....?
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/03/278.jpg
Yeah, like that but keeping the original lid and jack storage.
Thanks for the info, on seeing the tray I realize that I would only have the main and 2 aux batteries (one next to the main and one in the top left corner). Does anyone have any idea on how to run 2 aux batteries? Yellow top's, maybe different amperage or the same if I can offload my 35AH to someone.Quote:
Originally Posted by joe.woods
Where is the ECU located with the 2 batteries in front, and did you fabricate you own battery cradle? Thanks for the pic makes it a lot easier to visualise.
I think the ECU is behind the blue at the back - the rivets look about the right distance for it.
Anyway after thinking today, I think I've decided on the dual battery in the rear locker... here are my thoughts.
Cost for D2a rear battery setup for a 5 seat D2a TD5 it will eventually have a 120W solar panel charger on the roof.
First, I want the dual battery system to;
▪ Be able to start the car in case of main battery fault
▪ Run a 50 litre fridge for no more than a couple of days
▪ Run LED lights into the camper trailer (about 4 metres of strip lighting)
▪ Charge iDevices when in camp (I use them for reading/study at night)
▪ Run ABR compressor
▪ Run big LED camp lights to set up/pack up camp only.
I have been umming and aahing over the four basic options for battery locations for the D2a.
1. Under on the chassis rail where the SLS compressor would be
2. Engine Bay rear passenger corner
3. Move ECU and place the two batteries there
4. Rear bin (RHS for me as there is whopping great subwoofer on the LHS!)
I've settled on the RedArc SBI212 (200 Amp) dual battery controller ($220 ebay) and two 200 amp circuit breakers ($30 each on ebay) between each battery and the battery controller. These would be standard across whatever battery setup I choose, so it's down to the location minute and the wiring. I would need to run 200 Amp 0 gauge red cable between the two batteries (Jaycar $20 per metre) as I wish to crank though it. I'd also need 8 x 0gauge terminals ($9 each)for the positive lines between the main battery/circuit breaker/controller/circuit breaker/aux battery and two for the negative lines. (total $90)
SUBTOTAL = $370
From car to camper trailer etc I'd choose Jaycar's 8G (56Amp) twin cable $7 per metre or single at $3.60 per metre. For distribution I've chosen to use a 8 bay fuse block (150amp total, 50 amp any circuit) - $35 off eBay. The cable to this fuse block over any distance I'd use 2G cable (160A) @14.50 metre.
Now a cost benefit analysis of the four options.
1. Chassis Rail
The location there is too small for a larger AGM battery. so I've scrapped that idea.
That leaves the other three.
2. Engine Bay ABS corner
Cost for ARB mounting tray $80
+ve Cable linking batteries 3m 0 gauge =$60
-ve earth cable 1m 0 gauge =$20
Cable to fuse block - 5metres @14.50 = $75
Cable from solar panel - to aux battery 7 metres @ $7=$49
Plus - Under bonnet
Minus - Limited Battery Size, Possible heat issues, difficult mounting, limited to ~60Amp hour batteries
MOUNTING WIRING TOTAL = $284
3. Engine Bay existing location
Battery Tray - $200
Cable to fuse block - 5metres @14.50 = $75
Cable from solar panel - to aux battery 7 metres @ $7=$49
+ve 0 gauge cable 1 metre = $20
-ve 0 gauge cable 1 metre = $20
Plus - Under Bonnet
Minus - Limited battery size on Aux and Main. Need to scrap perfectly good current battery… Main battery unlikely to be cheaper lead acid. Limited battery size (~60 Amp hour)
MOUNTING WIRING TOTAL $364
4. Rear Locker
Cable linking batteries 6m 0 gauge @ $20 =$120
Earth aux batt 1.5m @ 20 = $30
Cable to fuse block 1m =$14.5
Cable from solar panel = 2m @7 = $14
Plus - Any size battery, simpler wiring, all accessory wiring is in the back, simple install
Minus - Loose rear bin, battery must be sealed as it's internal.
MOUNTING WIRING TOTAL $189
So I've chosen to rear mount the battery for several reasons:
1. I can use a 100 Amp hour battery
2. Easier install
3. Simpler. less fiddly wiring
4. Slight cost advantage!
Hope this helps!
Someone forgot to tell me that as I have an Optima Yellow Top sitting in the rear passenger side corner of my TD5 D2a...Quote:
Originally Posted by clubagreenie
Hence, " I thought"Quote:
Originally Posted by twr7cx
But then I had to re-read the line
"the dual battery in the rear locker"
How are you going to fit a battery in a rear locker?
for memory i paid $80 for delivery from the USA to Melb for the Columbia dual batt tray. All up i think it was about $250, maybe a little less, it was a little while ago but the exchange rate was about 1.09 at the timeQuote:
Originally Posted by stallie