Thread: Low transfer case oil=rear diff failure??

Ok. Rear wheel with hand brake only get slightly did it move left and right, no prop shaft movement. Front with CDL engaged in park exactly the same, in drive there was a little bi more movement but still no front prop shaft movement.
With CDL disengaged in drive there is full movement with drive shaft spinning; which I think would be normal because the front isn't locked at all and TC isn't disabled. So from what I understand does this mean TC box ok and I should be looking elsewhere for my clunks/backlash. I am taking it back to the diff shop I had it at 2 months ago and they will have a look. FYI, there is oil on my right rear wheel hub and a little on the left, I read a little but not quite sure if it could be related to rear diff problems.
Thanks in advance for your comments and suggestions.

The bronze in the TC will be the centre diff shims (or remains of them) They are cheap enough to change (get a complete TC rebuild kit from Ashcrofts.) They are not that hard to do.

It will look like this inside most likely - the longer you leave it the worse it will get:

LT230 Centre diff damage

There is no link in the damage between the diff and TC

Thanks for the link and the informative post. I will have a look at the centre diff tomorrow after I take it to the shop. I will post a pic and hopefully you or somebody will be able to tell me if anything is wrong in there. Can it be diagnosed without removing or are the shims hidden away? Thanks

Hi Trevor,

i just wrote a farly long reply and my Internet explorer crashed!

When you get the Centre diff out and apart:

Bad:



Good:



If you go to the thread on my 90 in my signature there is a step by step on how I rebuilt my transfer case. starts about post 341 and drifts on for a while!

Thanks for pics and info.

The link below will take you direct to post #341:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/gclro-memb...ml#post1590779

The ashcroft cross pin looks very chunky compared with the standard item.

http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co...&productId=138

Originally Posted by Psimpson7

They are not that hard to do.

... nah easy as pie...
Think I will have to leave this one to the professionals. Hope Im not gonna be too much in the hole after this repair.
Also; sorry if its obvious/already been answered... will the loss of shims in the centre diff result in pretty bad backlash because Im still trying to figure that out to.

Pete,

Just wondering if you replaced the diff gears (or any others for that matter) when you did the o/h?

Trevor,

I believe the worn/destroyed shims do result in bad backlash. Mine had silver and brass glitter in the oil when I last did a change about 5-6K km ago. I really need to drop the oil again and see what's going on. It seems to have developed a bit of a whine when making a turn from a standing start and it clunks noticeably when lifting off the throttle.

Mine is a pretty much a daily driver so I'm trying to work out how to do a rebuild with minimal down time. I'm tempted to look for a transfer box from a MY02 D2 without the diff lock internals to rebuild then swap the front housing with diff lock mechanism when I pull the old box. Is it that simple of is there something I'm missing?

cheers
Paul

Hi Paul,

In the transfer case, I changed every single bearing and seal, the heavy duty cross pin for the centre diff, all the shims etc etc.

All the gears etc were like new and didnt need replacing. After taking advice I reused the centre diff housing with new shims.

Also interestingly, the kit is supplied with a crush tube for setting the preload on the intermediate gear. Even with my longest knuckle bar I couldnt get it to collapse atall. I ended up reusing the spacer I took out which was a precision ground much heavier wall tube than the replacement spacer. Slightly odd, I wondered if LR changed something later on, in the same way they did with the specific wheel bearing spacers they have now.

This worked fine and the preload is ok now.

Rgds
Pete