Hey all, I was adding a transfer case sump today and when I drained the oil (supposedly 2 liters give or take) about 200ml came out :0. Last month my rear diff blew and the warning signs have started again. I am currently waiting for a new rotoflex and bush so can't exactly see if this fixed my issue. My rationale for why it may cause the diff to go is: the transfer gears are very strong and unlikely to break so it continues to give power to the prop shaft which is not as strong but stronger than the gears in the rear diff which give way eventually. Is my reasoning logical or am I looking for reasons as to why my diff keeps having problems. I will attach pictures when I get to a desktop.
I don't see how the low oil level in the transfer box would effect the rear diff. The rear diff has it's own oil level. The transfer box should still be transfering power from the gearbox to the diff via the rear tailshaft. I don't believe the method of transfer to the rear diff would change due to the low transfer box oil level, or not unless the low oil caused damage to the transfer box or caused it to seize, in which case there could be a sudden violent force transfered to the rear diff...
I think you may be on to something, when it started happening again it ONLY happened when accelerating and decelerating (so transfer box starts and stops?) it was very violent and got progressively worse. In any case, once I get my rotoflex and bushing I will (hopefully) let you know the good news.
ok so here are some pictures. I have recently read that having flakes and chunks in the oil is not a good thing; its a sign that the t-case is going apparently. Can anyone give me some advice, feedback etc. I have changed the oil (what there was of it); changed the rotoflex and bushing of the prop shaft and the diff was changed (for a used one) about 6 weeks ago. When the diff went there was a clunking when accelerating, decelerating and braking. And now it is happening again but not as bad but I fear it is going to happen again. I guess I will have to have a look at getting the t-case replaced but I want to know some things before i start ringing around. Thanks in advance guys.
IMG_0885[1].jpg
gears.jpg
oil.jpg
t case.jpg
Don't jump to conclusions. There is no relation between the Diff & t-case issues. I would not be too alarmed about your T-Case just yet, If it hasn't blown up or overheated whilst running next to no oil it can't be too stuffed. Hard to tell in a photo but unless its brass the gunk looks like old gasket or silicon bits that someone hasn't cleaned out properly. If its brass I'd pull it down !!
If you don't have a hell of a big oil pool on your floor the oil must be going somewhere else - check your Gearbox level too, it may have transferred thru the seals ??
Clean the gunk out, put the bottom back & use a magnetic bung, refill to correct level & check it in 5000klm to see what gives !!
Also check the A frame Ball Joint on top of the Diff housing , if its loose or sloppy that can cause the clunking.
Yeh those chunks are definitely brass. So what exactly does it mean? Does this translate to clunking? Thanks for the help
Edit: A-frame ball joint sturdy and fine
It is leaking as mentioned below which looks like from both the tranny and t-case... Oh joy...
There was a magnetic bung which had even more brass bits than in the picture with the oil pan.
new oil.jpg
oil leak.jpg
old oil leak.jpg
So I have recently added a roverdrive oil sump for the transfer case so the cover is completely spotless, there was A LOT of brass chunks/flakes when I drained it. FYI I am not sure how long it had been unchanged for, probably my fault cause ive had the car for 30,000ks and didnt think of doing it. So on the assumption that it is my t-case does anyone have any suggestions for mechanics who will fit a t-case? I will also get my transmission fluid done as it looks like I have 2 leaks (notice one pic has a clean drop of oil and another has a dirt one). The closer to the hoppers crossing/werribee area the better but willing to drive and pay for quality service and parts. Suggestions for t-case suppliers also appreciated...
So I found a TC overhaul kit from British 4wd in eBay, I'm looking at all options so feel free to comment on this, pros cons etc. I don't know if this is a COMPLETE overhaul as it doesn't look like there are enough components. Damn this D2 is doing my head in, she'd be in trouble if I didn't loved her so much...
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com.au/vi...424&cmd=VIDESC
Clunking from driveline backlash will always show up when you accelerate and decelerate. The whole driveline gets pushed in one direction and then in the other and the clunk is just the combined clearances between all the individual pieces. How much clunk depends on how worn the different parts are. All that bronze in the T/C doesn't look too good, but don't panic too much just yet. Do as Goingbush says with that - clean, refill and check in a few thousand K's to see how its looking. Only costs you $30 in oil and half an hour. Don't assume its stuffed.
Rover diffs break - its just what they do so don't panic about that either.
How worn was the second hand diff that was fitted?
Do a search on driveline slop, or driveline backlash and have a read. There is LOTS of good info on how to check for wear at the different parts, from axles and drive flange to prop shafts and transfer case etc.
Try and work out where most of the slop is coming from.
Start by putting the handbrake on which stops the rear end from rotating the transfer case, then jack up one rear wheel so that its clear of the ground. Rotate the wheel raised wheel with your hands and see what moves. The prop shaft shouldn't rotate at all - if it does you've got a stuffed uni joint.
If the wheel doesn't rotate much then all is good back there. If it rotates a lot then you need to look further at the drive flanges and axle splines, and possibly the diff center.
Engage the CDL if you've got one (so that the front of the T/C can't move) and do the same sort of thing with a front wheel.
Repeat the front test with the CDL unlocked in 4th gear, and you'll see how much movement is in the center diff/transfer/gearbox.
Unless you are really flush with cash (in which case bring it round to my place, and I'll relieve you of some $$$), don't start jumping into replacing/rebuilding things unless you're sure they need it otherwise you're going waste a lot of $$$ for probably not much result.
Steve
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