Fossicker
Here is some photos of oil leaks on my donor D2a. They are actually more seeping than leaking. If I have enough time it may make sense to fix before I do the transplant, but they may not be bad enough to justify the time.
The 1st photo I suspect the oil is from the camshaft cover? The 2nd maybe the rear of the tappet cover. The 3rd looks like coming from where the wires enter the trannie. The 4th is the front diff and looks like it is coming from the breather connection. The 5th is the rear output shaft from the TC.
Opinions please on the source & cure.
I did notice the rear diff breather on my D2 only goes to the chassis, whereas on the D2a it goes behind the left tail light. Is that normal?
Thanks.
ChatterBox
SupporterI'm no mechanic but I'd be having a good look at the diff breather leak and the transfer. I was taught that if oil can get out, then water can get in... esp if there is a rapid temp change as you get doing a water crossing. Not much point having an extended breather if it leaks at the diff.
The D2a came with extended breathers.
The others I wouldn't be too worried about, it does only look like seepage. Whilst not ideal.... it is a LR lol.
D4 SDV6, a blank canvas
YarnMaster
The rear diff breathers were changed in 2001. There is a LR Tech Bulletin covering water contamination of rear diff oil in the earlier D2's which gives part numbers for the extended breather tubes.
It's probably worth moving the extended hoses across to the D2 if you have the time.
The other motor pics look like:
- a leaking front camshaft seal, which is easy to fix. Buy a genuine seal. I bought a bearmach replacement seal 10 months ago, and I had the engine cover off a few days ago and found it is already as worn, sloppy and leaking like the one it replaced.
- rocker cover seal leaking around the u section at the back of the motor.
ChatterBox
Change the seals while it's all out and easy to get to. It will be the best preventative maintenance investment you will make.
Fossicker
On closer inspection it looks like the TC seals are not leaking. Maybe inspection cover leak though.Originally Posted by strangy
YarnMaster
I think the key word in strangy's post was preventative. The idea is that you replace now rather than wait for the seals to fail. It will be far easier to do the seals with the transfer case out.
Fossicker
Totally understand. I was wondering if it has been known for the TC seals to last say 400ks before leaking or are they known to always need replacement by say 200ks. That sort of information could help me make a risk analysis of potential oil leaks.
Thanks
YarnMaster
It seems 170-250K is reasonably common. Judging by forum reports and my own looming TC rebuild, you start seeing the shims in the centre diff going by 200-250K which means a rebuild. By 400K the box will have been rebuilt at least once.
Fossicker
Also I have not found the answer if aftermarket seals last as long as original. Are there better aftermarket seals?
ChatterBox
Older vehicles with dated seal technology often benefit from newer seal design and materials.
In your instance with relatively modern vehicle, OEM/ genuine are the best type you can fit.
OEM seals or equivalents are available from most bearing suppliers, or CBC, SKF, BSC etc.often less than a LR supplied seal. However you must check the seal design and material are at least the same. Seal design is often the difference in price and longevity. Generic type (as opposed to OEM / genuine) seals will work ok in most circumstances but will not last the same as a purpose design seal.
I would never fit a generic I.e size for size only seal to transfer/ engine/ gearbox/ diff etc unless I had together the vehicle going in a pinch.
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