your local repco should be able to order one in.....Quote:
Originally Posted by BigJon
Printable View
your local repco should be able to order one in.....Quote:
Originally Posted by BigJon
I had one just snap without warning.
Nearly cost me my engine.
Never had a worm drive do that.
Skuilnaam
Had a worm drive snap off while driving. The radiator end of the hose that goes to the turbo in a td5. Sounded like a blown tire and scared the **** out of me. Still prefer these though as they are simple and easy to replace.Quote:
Originally Posted by skuilnaam
To answer the question about gauge reliability. Mine starts to move at 55, is centred at 73, stays there till over 100, and then is in the red and light on at 106. Centred to overheat is virtually instantaneous.
The spring clamps work well, but I've found you need to do the job correctly or they'll leak.
The fittings the hoses connect to need to be clean. If you have gunk, or residue build up on the mating surface the odds are the hose will leak. I've found that cleaning metal fittings to "bright metal" with a green kitchen scourer worked well. The plastic connectors just need to be cleaned carefully. If you have corroded mating surfaces you'd do well to replace them.
cheers
Paul
So Centred to overheat is virtually instantaneous - you've just convinced me that i need to get a Cylinder Head Temp gauge....Quote:
Originally Posted by clubagreenie
onebob
nope the temp gauge is normalised..
cook an engine if you dare to confirm this (or feed in a false input if you want to try it the sane way) but
from cold to normal the gauge moves like you expect it to.
anywhere within normal operating range and the gauge stays smack bang in the middle... This stops the "but I wanna be a good driver" idiot factor akin to people who go for a ride in an old school bogie drive truck that has a temp gauge for the diffs so they fit one up to their rangie and then whinge and whine over the 2 way that they need to slow down because the diff has gone from 84 deg C to 85 deg c in the middle of a loooong uphill climb with an eleventy million ton trailer with the same windage as a small planet populated soley by politicians and lawyers.
once it gets to the "hot" phase (which is still, providing you have your cooling system in good order, not fatal for the engine) it will swing up and stick it in the hot spot so that even the most inept drug addled ipswichian recon scout cant miss its ooh so "slap you in the face with a phone directory" subtle movement and hopefully come to the conclusion that the H the needles in doesnt mean "Hook in" but "Heads stuffed"
Once the needle swings off the end thats it Game over kiss your head and about $2k from your wallets fund lining good bye.
If there is coolant leaking past what appears to be well functioning spring clips (or any other clip/clamp) it can also mean overpressuring of the system. Putting in better clamps in that case can just shift the leak somewhere else until you track down the cause (head or thermostat?).
Sorry to be negative - just been through this (replacing clamps, spiggot and a water pump in the process) and it was the head on my 1999 TD5 just starting to leak. The plastic dowels were quite sheared by about 1-2 mm.
It's still at the 'Doctor'
Willis
when i first received my d2 v8 it had green coolant in it,when i changed to the red it found every place possible to leak from including from around the hoses[something about the red cleaning the gunk left by the green]is this whats happening here.and lets not get into the red verses green debate please:D
I think bob10 had said that the hoses and radiator were changed. The post coolant change leaks only happen where the hoses/seals haven't been disturbed or if the hoses have been changed but the mating surfaces haven't been cleaned properly.Quote:
Originally Posted by lewy
I'm becoming increasingly skeptical about the fit and quality of pattern parts. If aftermarket hoses have been fitted all bets are off, and worm drive may well be the only way to stop the leaks.