Thread: OEM hose clips - how good are they

Originally Posted by p38arover

I've given up on them and specify OEM when I order.

I'm with you 100% on that - I now only buy genuine or OEM.

I rapidly discovered that it's a case of "buy cheap, buy twice" when using pattern parts. As an example I replaced a leaking front camshaft seal less than a year ago using a bearmach aftermarket part. A couple of week ago I had the acoustic cover off and found the seal was already loose and leaking.

Definitely agree with using OE for any critical component.

I just replace the water pump and although $164 for an OE part V's $98 for aftermarket the difference in quality when compared side by side is incredible, for example, cast brass rotors in OE rather than pressed steel in the aftermarket one I removed.

(Thanks Blknight for the workshop tips on one of your older posts on changing a V8 water pump).

have also ordered the heater hoses (OE) that go into the firewall and will use the new OE spring hose clamps, but for now the old clamps are holding in place some temporary hose I picked up at Autobarn. Not ideal as this temporary hose is an even 3/4"NB and the OE hose reduces in bore dia at the firewall end. However the old spring type clamps are doing a surprisingly good job preventing leaks. Need to hang on 'til Thursday

Originally Posted by Willis

If there is coolant leaking past what appears to be well functioning spring clips (or any other clip/clamp) it can also mean overpressuring of the system. Putting in better clamps in that case can just shift the leak somewhere else until you track down the cause (head or thermostat?).

Sorry to be negative - just been through this (replacing clamps, spiggot and a water pump in the process) and it was the head on my 1999 TD5 just starting to leak. The plastic dowels were quite sheared by about 1-2 mm.

It's still at the 'Doctor'

Willis

Good point, my truck has done 279000Km and I'm wondering if better to bite the bullet and just plan to do the HG before 290000 km. Apart from over pressuring were there any other tell tale signs ??

onebob

Originally Posted by simonl8353

Definitely agree with using OE for any critical component.

Yep, I think that's the thing. The difference in cost is minimal compared with labour.

Originally Posted by It'sNotWorthComplaining!

I like these type of clamps, they don't chew into the rubber hoses like jubilee type ones do.

Yep, cheap at your local irrigation equipment supplier. I even use them (larger versions onviously) on my turbo pipes because the thin worm gear clamps tend to cut through the rubber eventually, probably due to the boost pressure pushing the rubber against the sharp edge of the clamp.

dont put them on plastic fittings. the torque needed to tighten them up properly can snap off or crush your plastic bits. had it happen to someone who was doing his cooling system at the same time as I was doing big reds...

If you're working side by side in a workshop with the vehicle on hoists, asking me to help you fix your cooling system after youve already replaced the normal spring clamps with the heavy bolt clampy ones trying to stop a leak and shattered the pipe is a good way to get laughed at.

In my D2 when the bleed screw crapped out I got a 4" piece of exhaust pipe, made up a threaded piece of solid to take a plug (with captive seal under the head). Cut out the section with the old screw and put the pipe in its place. Soon after I could see the pink of the coolant weeping through the centre section of the hose, where the reinforcing is, but since then it doesn't actually leak.

I have also made a replacement tee piece, this also allows non standard (cheaper) pieces of hose to be used.

In regards to the temps on the gauge. I set up the original sender (and also repeated the test with a new sensor for comparison) on the engine harness with a small cooker and pot of water. A calibrated gauge in the water and set it off to simmer slowly up to boil. This is how I got the data (at least for my vehicle) and then also ran the master gauge in the coolant stream and drove the vehicle to gauge a normal operating range (freeway, stop/start traffic, suburban driving). Generally runs around 95-96 suburban, maybe up to 98 when stopped in traffic in summer. On freeway drops to 93 if cruising at 95-100, climbs back up to 97 if pushed to 110 +. But the whole time the dash gauge never moves. More importantly, the scangauge reads just as accurately as the master, changing readings within 5 seconds.

my top hose is also leaking like that at both ends - it was replaced by an indy for the previous owner at 165k with a supposedly quality pattern part - its now dripping at 192k.
Have had the head end off and refitted with RTV and various types of available clamps and even fence wire, thinking they weren't clamping tight enough it still leaks - thanks to this thread I now realise its leaking within the reinforcement, thanks to Dave.

So its a new LR part for me then.

these pattern parts are simply a false economy - like my old ma says - ''Buy Cheap, Pay Dear...''