Thread: Installing front shocks ... problem

Originally Posted by Orch

Yeh this! I don't like spring compressors let alone a ratchet stap!

The comment was that he used the ratchet strap for the shock, not the spring.

I used those pull down straps on the springs so no extra leverage other than my own strength. I only managed to get them down by less than an inch. It was just enough to slide them in.

I think the differance is you can't get a very big ratchet strap on the spring when fitting so it's not going to be holding a whole lot of force like spring compressors can.

Happy Days

If you disconnect one end of the panhard rod then you do not need to compress the springs (provided your front tailshaft doesn't hit the crossmember which may be an issue on a standard setup). You can just push the front diff down until the springs are at their full length and then pull them straight out.

Originally Posted by RisingSun

Andrew_D did you find the rear of your disco very bouncy when under 40km/h? Almost like the Shocks weren't dampening the bounce, but fine when traveling over 60km/h?

I haven't noticed this. I see what I experience over the weekend but I'm pretty sure I don't experience the bounce at 40 km/hr.

Regards
Andrew

Originally Posted by twr7cx

If you disconnect one end of the panhard rod then you do not need to compress the springs (provided your front tailshaft doesn't hit the crossmember which may be an issue on a standard setup). You can just push the front diff down until the springs are at their full length and then pull them straight out.

On a standard setup I think you could follow this method without removing the panhard rod.

Jack the car as high as you can with the bottle jack, place a car stand under the car on the chassis. Remove the jack. Place the jack under the front diff near the relevant shock and take the jack up to support the diff. Remove the tyre. Remove the lower bolt in the shock. Lower the jack supporting the diff.

This should now allow sufficient room to remove the spring. It might need a little bit of jiggling or compression but not much. Brakes lines have enough length as well.

Regards
Andrew

Originally Posted by Andrew D

On a standard setup I think you could follow this method without removing the panhard rod.

Jack the car as high as you can with the bottle jack, place a car stand under the car on the chassis. Remove the jack. Place the jack under the front diff near the relevant shock and take the jack up to support the diff. Remove the tyre. Remove the lower bolt in the shock. Lower the jack supporting the diff.

This should now allow sufficient room to remove the spring. It might need a little bit of jiggling or compression but not much. Brakes lines have enough length as well.

Regards
Andrew

Doesn't work. There is too much bind in the bushes. I've tried. You need to do both at once.

Bottle jack to full height. Disconnect the sway bar. Axle stands under the chassis as high as possible (scary, I know) wheel off and lower. Do the same on the next side. You need both shocks disconnected to get the axle to drop enough. Removing the cross member is only 4 bolts if the drive shaft touches. With the brakes a couple of mm off the ground, I still needed to compress the springs slightly.

The bind seems to be in the control arms, not the pan hard rod.

Happy Days.

You lot make it hard, 4" springs easy, no spring compressor, only shocks unbolted...
Very easy...

Originally Posted by joel0407

The bind seems to be in the control arms, not the pan hard rod.

I find that hard to believe. I have fitted +2" springs with 2" spacers underneath them without any compressing at all. There's enough drop in the standard arms to get that in.

Originally Posted by twr7cx

I find that hard to believe. I have fitted +2" springs with 2" spacers underneath them without any compressing at all. There's enough drop in the standard arms to get that in.

Yes. As long as you do both sides at the same time. If you only do one side, the second side won't drop.


Happy days.