Thread: 2000 v 2004

What sort of problems are you having? Is it a diesel or petrol? Manual or auto?

I have a 2000 D2 and find it great. It is a 12 year old car though so some things will be going wrong and wearing out - I have the squeeking manifold rearing its head as we speak. Some people state that you should go for the later years of a model run. I think the early ones are fine if they are maintained properly. The plastic dowels of the early models in the head are a worry to some but I've had no problems. My mechanic thinks that if the dowels fail, there is something larger afoot anyway. But each to his own. So long as the car has been serviced properly and the problems can be fixed, I'd stick with the one you have over the one with the pretty headlights. That's the main difference as far as I can see!

The 2003/4 models have a better reputation, but I would be inclined to stick with what you have unless the issues are terminal or you desire a newer car.

Remember the youngest is going to be 8 years old now and all will have their issues. At least you know the history of yours and if you factor in change over costs, that will buy a lot of repairs/parts. Condition rather than year is all important wrt to reliability.

I was in similar situation last year deciding whether to keep my soft dash classic or trade up to a disco2 TD5 after i had bought a caravan. At the end of the day I determined it made no sense economically. Pity about a wee electrical fire 3 months ago which wrote off the vehicle, so I am now looking for a TD5 D2a anyway.

Cheers

Steve

From what I can gather, the 2004 Classic would be the one to get. They're coming down in price as they get older and they seem to have most of the bugs ironed out and be good value as far as standard equipment goes (DVD player etc).
I have an early built MY2003 D2a (9/02) and have had a few of the early D2 problems (FPR, fuel pump, front shaft, amigoes, fuel cooler o-rings) so I reckon MY2003 must sit half way between 2000 and 2004 models as far as reliability goes! I agree that its usually best to get the last of the model run as most of the issues are sorted by then.

Originally Posted by Davetd5

From what I can gather, the 2004 Classic would be the one to get. They're coming down in price as they get older and they seem to have most of the bugs ironed out and be good value as far as standard equipment goes (DVD player etc).
I have an early built MY2003 D2a (9/02) and have had a few of the early D2 problems (FPR, fuel pump, front shaft, amigoes, fuel cooler o-rings) so I reckon MY2003 must sit half way between 2000 and 2004 models as far as reliability goes! I agree that its usually best to get the last of the model run as most of the issues are sorted by then.

With the exception of the change from plastic to steel head dowels there should be little difference in reliability of the Td5 engine between pre and post-facelift d2s. Fuel coolers, fuel pumps, fpr are the same design and suffer from the same issues. The primary advantage of the 03/04 vehicles in this regard is that they are younger. Once they hit the same age/mileage as the 2000's you'd expect them to experience the same kind of issues, and that is borne out by forum posts.

The majority of the "fixes" for the 03/04 are relatively small but worthwhile improvements. Off the top of my head these include:

- Revised rear diff breather (in the 02 as well)
- Revised SLABS ECU with improved TC/ABS programs and improved tolerance of low sensor output
- Revised brake master cylinder and callipers for better brake feel
- Revised front hub carrier (altered camber)
- Revised ACE ECU
- Revised spring/shock rates
- Revised suspension geometry
- Revised transfer case design to reduce operating noise
- User operated diff lock
- New front propshaft design on Td5 Auto models to reduce noise/vibration transmission


Ultimately the 2004 D2a is the most refined of the D2 series because of these kinds of changes and incremental improvements, but they don't make it immune from the problems that afflict the earlier D2's.

cheers
Paul

Originally Posted by OffTrack

With the exception of the change from plastic to steel head dowels there should be little difference in reliability of the Td5 engine between pre and post-facelift d2s. Fuel coolers, fuel pumps, fpr are the same design and suffer from the same issues. The primary advantage of the 03/04 vehicles in this regard is that they are younger. Once they hit the same age/mileage as the 2000's you'd expect them to experience the same kind of issues, and that is borne out by forum posts.

The majority of the "fixes" for the 03/04 are relatively small but worthwhile improvements. Off the top of my head these include:

- Revised rear diff breather (in the 02 as well)
- Revised SLABS ECU with improved TC/ABS programs and improved tolerance of low sensor output
- Revised brake master cylinder and callipers for better brake feel
- Revised front hub carrier (altered camber)
- Revised ACE ECU
- Revised spring/shock rates
- Revised suspension geometry
- Revised transfer case design to reduce operating noise
- User operated diff lock
- New front propshaft design on Td5 Auto models to reduce noise/vibration transmission


Ultimately the 2004 D2a is the most refined of the D2 series because of these kinds of changes and incremental improvements, but they don't make it immune from the problems that afflict the earlier D2's.

cheers
Paul

Not to mention the larger intercooler then earlier models and revised fuelling map on the ECU that made it a far easier car for towing or general driving.............

Originally Posted by gusthedog

What sort of problems are you having? Is it a diesel or petrol? Manual or auto?

I have a 2000 D2 and find it great. It is a 12 year old car though so some things will be going wrong and wearing out - I have the squeeking manifold rearing its head as we speak. Some people state that you should go for the later years of a model run. I think the early ones are fine if they are maintained properly. The plastic dowels of the early models in the head are a worry to some but I've had no problems. My mechanic thinks that if the dowels fail, there is something larger afoot anyway. But each to his own. So long as the car has been serviced properly and the problems can be fixed, I'd stick with the one you have over the one with the pretty headlights. That's the main difference as far as I can see!

The torque converter cracked also developed a rad leak

Originally Posted by Harold Clark

The torque converter cracked also developed a rad leak

Get an ashcrofts torque converter - JC from tassie raves about them in D2's. And radiators eventually wear out, particularly the plastic buggers in D2's. Both of those could happen in a later car too. At least you know what $ you're up for with your own vehicle. If you buy another D2 - even a later model - you could be up for some hidden repairs anyway.

Recycling at work - keep the ol girl going with a few repairs I reckon

I think this will answer all your queries and boo hoo bugger orf D2 owners

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...a-section.html

regards

Stevo