Moderator
G'day all
I'm currently assembling all the pieces for the standard home made CDL lever, which is the drive extensions and uni joints idea.
The one thing that has had me racking my brains is how to make a suitable handle, so that its out of the way, works well, and looks reasonably pretty
My idea is I keep the socket on the end of the drive extender, and construct a small, detachable lever out of another drive extender, have the socket just protruding from the base panel of the centre console, with some sort of plastic cap.
When you want to engage CDL, pop the cap off, insert the lever and twist.
Simple, reasonably unobtrusive, and would look pretty cool IMHO.
The two problems that I can think of are as follows:
1. Length of the drive extender. It's a 10" extension, and I don't want it sticking way up in the air. Could i simply cut the bottom end off, shape it so it will still fit in the first uni joint and then weld into place?
2. Size of the socket. The socket is considerably larger than the main part of the extension, thus meaning I have to drill larger holes in the centre console panel and the tranny plate. Is this an issue? Would it be worth making some sort of adapter plate to fit over the hole in the tranny plate, so that it wasn't quite so large after the socket fits through, or would it be better to just fit some rubber around it, or something similar?
If anyone has used the socket end for their lever, any advice on how to make it work?
cheers
Muppet.
P.S If pics are needed, let me know and ill put what's in my head into a visual form!
Last edited by Disco Muppet; 22nd May 2012 at 11:13 AM. Reason: giving people the wrong idea by saying case instead of plate
Master
There is a thread on exactly this type of CDL actuator but I couldn't find it just now
Shouldn't have to drill into the transfer case - if you have the CDL internals, the actuator should be visible on top of the transfer case just behind the front output shaft. As for a big hole for the socket - why not connect the extension to the socket after putting the extension thru, so you only have to make the hole big enough for the extension bar.
Master
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...or-woohoo.html
found it!
Cheers,
Alex
Moderator
Thanks Alex, but it's not the transfer case you need to drill!
It's the plate, between the top of the console and the transfer case itself
And I certainly could connect after drilling the holes, but that'd probably rule out welding it in place, as welding inside the bowels of a disco miiiiiiight not be a good idea!
Cheers for the input
Muppet
Moderator
Anybody know how much force you need to activate CDL with the home made lever? Just wondering if my idea will provide enough mechanical advantage to turn the spigot.
Cheers
Muppet
Master
If the spigot hasnt' seized it doesn't take much force at all. You aren't actually locking the centre diff, just shifting a shaft and tensioning a spring which then locks the diff once everything lines up. Also, the CDL light doesn't come on until the diff is actually locked, unlike jap c@#p where the light comes on as soon as the transfer case lever/electric dash button is moved.Originally Posted by Disco Muppet
Moderator
Yeah, I've done the 10mm spanner method before, just getting sick of it
Wizard
Very little force needed at all, assuming all is good with the internals.
Cheers,
Member
Hey guys, so I may just be retarded (likely) but I am pretty sure I do have the CDL internals, as I've got the stud with three bolts and the center stud on a td5 2000's d2, but I can't get a 10mm socket or spanner onto that stud. I've got a zoomed in photo from another forum of the bolt on that stud and it looks a lot bigger than what I can feel on my truck, and suggestions? I will try to get a video for myself to see what I can feel when I have some time in the sunlight. Really want to try get the CDL to work as the truck seems very capable with just the ETC on open diffs, managed to outdrive my rear lockered d23 on our first trip out
Fossicker
SupporterYou can work out for sure by locating the stamped number on your transfer case, and then checking it against lists that are published identifying which transfer cases have the internals. I suspect that Ashcrofts in the UK have the list, as they manufacture and sell a retrofit transfer box locking mechanism. Hopefully a 2000 box will have the internals.
I fitted the Ashcroft to my 99 D2. It makes a huge difference on gravel/loose surfaces, and frankly I hardly ever seem to lose enough traction for the electronic system to be needed.
Myles
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