D2 front recovery points???

As I just got a new bar and had the same questions re the recover points and also the winch as it's mounted to the bar which is fixed to the cans (so has the same effect) They say that it is possible to engineer the cans to deform but not stretch and as such this is what happens in the event of an accident. Given the xrox stuff is pretty heavy duty anyway (as opposed to the shear pin system in the original cans) if or when it moves I'll take it up with them. Should be noticeable by the bar either being an inch or two forward or under the car.

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Originally Posted by jaffa

Sounds like a lot of talk over nothing here they're just disco's if they get stuck just leave them there, they are a dime a dozen anyway.

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D2 need as many recovery points as possible maybe put some on the door handles or roof rails for a side recovery:o

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Originally Posted by CJT

This is how mine aremounted on the D2, direct to the chassis rails where the crush cans and bash plate mount to.



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...13/06/1030.jpg

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Are these homemade, or purchased?

Either way; how much?

Cheers.

OK I have received a set of recovery points from Outcast Offroad. My opinion from just an eye ball calculation is that to bolt the points in front of the crush cans as per the photos is more questionable than using the suppled eyes on the ARB bar. The eyes are inline with the chassis and the bar is bolted to the cans with 8 bolts. Bolting the recovery points under the bull bar will put a rotational force on the bar during a tug as it is not a straight line pull on the chassis and would be more likely to distort the crush cans, I think. Also each recovery point will be attached with only 2 bolts so a total of 4 vs 8 for the bull bar. The bolts would only be through one side of the crash can assembly too so a single "skin".

Behind the crush cans there is a spot where you could drill the chassis rail and bolt through but sounds like work and I am not exactly happy about putting holes and potentially cracks in the chassis.

On the drivers side there are the bolts that hold the steering box to the chassis. Longer bolts and the recovery points would fit. Some concern I guess with a big pull of moving the box but it would have to be the sort of pull that would rip the metal of the chassis. On the passenger side there are a couple of bolt holes in the chassis. I would need to remove the lower plastic retainer for the inner mud guard and I would have to elongate one of the holes a few mm in the recovery point to line up but this would be manageable.

I've decided not to bother putting them on and will continue to rely on the supplied ARB points. But if anyone wants my set send me a PM:D

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Originally Posted by ZippoParis

Are these homemade, or purchased?

Either way; how much?

Cheers.

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I bought mine from 4x4 Intelligence a few years ago before they stopped the business.

I am not aware of any others that bolt to the same location at the moment.

I may be able to look at having a few sets plasma cut and powdercoated, not sure on what the cost would be though.

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Originally Posted by clubagreenie

As I just got a new bar and had the same questions re the recover points and also the winch as it's mounted to the bar which is fixed to the cans (so has the same effect) They say that it is possible to engineer the cans to deform but not stretch and as such this is what happens in the event of an accident. Given the xrox stuff is pretty heavy duty anyway (as opposed to the shear pin system in the original cans) if or when it moves I'll take it up with them. Should be noticeable by the bar either being an inch or two forward or under the car.

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I was told when I bought mine that they must be behind the concertina points on the bull bar (ARB type).

Tony :wheelchair:

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Originally Posted by ZippoParis

Are these homemade, or purchased?

Either way; how much?

Cheers.

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Just had a bit of a search, you can still get the recovery points I have through 4x4 Design and Engineering.

4x4 Design and Engineering - Landrover Discovery 2

In the instructions they detail two holes on each side that match the bolt pattern of those terrible hooks. Also on the front outside the winch hawse hole there are two holes detailed for recovery eyes. I checked on saturday with them and they can be opened up for larger sized eye bolts.

Any more info on what recovery points us poor mortals that have a standard front bar can use?

I had the chance to inspect a TJM bar for a brand new BT50 4wd,,,
bolted directly to the crush cans with twin eyelets in a direct line forward.
There is a sticker that says a bridle MUST be used.